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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 26-Jan-2018 At 6:22:43 PM Jayford4321
On 25-Sep-2017 The good Dr wrote:
>The obvious solution has been completely overlooked. Install any rap stations
>using pitons and shackles. Pitons have been used at Ben Lomond since the
>early days and still recommended for use (e.g. see the ice climbing guide).
>There are still old pins lingering on routes and not a word about removing
>Problem solved,

On 10-Oct-2017 The good Dr wrote:
>As I noted earlier, let us just go back to pitons as fixed pro and anchors
>at the Ben. Currently seems perfectly acceptable.

On 25-Jan-2018 The good Dr wrote:
>OK, aghain it seems pitons are fine to leave hammered in all over the place
>but bolts are bad. Drill some holes, bang in some pins in the holes for
>rap ancors (aka Indian Creek) and problem solved.

There iz a reason peeps R ignoring Ur commentz , but far B it for me to say itz a crap idea , so insted I'll just say good luck wiff that , an 2 back up my theory about some peeps think itz crap will quoteU agen -

On 4-Aug-2014 The good Dr wrote:
>Pulled these couple of dodgy pins on the weekend from Warmonger at Araps.
>The angle everyone relies on to stop hitting the belay ledge. This ended
>up being pretty loose and even though "fully" embeded it was in a flare
>and only had contact with the end couple of cm of the pin (you can see
>it if you look closely).
>The leeper was a bit below the angle, and of its condition ... well, enough
>said! Fortunately the leeper was embeded in a perfect cam placement (0.2
>X4 camelot works really well) high enough to be useful, so replacement
>fixed gear was not needed.
>Take care out there as this type of evil can be well hidden from view
>and difficult to assess by just looking at the gear. Just immediately assume
>it is dodgy!!

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