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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Anyone know about the block coming off Odin? 9-Aug-2017 At 9:34:05 AM Wendy
On 31/07/2017 Doug wrote:
>On 31/07/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
> local climbers might
>>want to keep an eye on things and make judgement calls. If a big flake
>>or block is liable to come off under body weight, the climb is pretty
>>anyway. Bite the bullet and trundle, history be damned.

This still sends like an unrealistic idea to me. When do you decide something needs to be trundled? The magic block had survived 46 years of people climbing on it. Should it have been trundled in 1971, 2001, last year? Trundling also doesn't necessarily result in clean rock either. The start of sorcerers apprentice is still manky several years after a bunch of it fell down. There's a scary block held up by a tree route on the new route created by the theoryledge fall a few years ago.

How do you clean up the entirety of theory, Bloody Mary, witches cauldron or clockwork orange corner? The top chimney of electric lead? The top 30m of rack and ruin? The bottom and top of peach popsicles? Should the seventh banana chockstones go before they do it of their own accord? The many highly chalked friable flakes and moving chockstones across the crag?

Frog is never going to be a completely safe, user friendly crag. People need to take responsibly for judging what they climb on and place gear behind, the likelihood of failure and the consequences of it. I think the most useful thing that could be done for making frog a safer crag is replacing manky tree anchors and putting anchors in that don't require scrambling over the choss at the top to get off. Despite the friable nature of much of the rock, the vast number of rockfalls occur from topping out and scambling across the top of the cliff and this is an issue that it is actually possible to address.

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