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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The technique critique thread. 28-Jul-2017 At 12:07:53 PM Wendy
Message
Other than being an eyesore, that particular bolt doesn't really impinge on telemachus. the one above where you diagonal left into electra however is totally accessible. In fact, I've been known to be lazy and rap off it rather than doing the end of electra twice when doing both routes. Not really recommended practice to rap off a single bolt though ...

Regarding the double ropes - i'd have a short draw on both pieces and one rope into each. That is so low down on the route that it will still be a smooth line into the finish of electra and the only way to have perfectly straight lines up the route would be to have one rope for the telemachus bit and the other rope for the electra bit, which would have you effectively climbing on a single 8mm rope for most of the climb, which is also a rather dumb idea. I'd clip the right rope only towards the top of the telemachus bit and the left rope only at the start of the electra bit and maybe extend the first piece in electra for both ropes depending on how the rope line is looking. It's not rocket science. Just keep looking at your ropes so far, where you are going to be climbing, anything you might be at risk of hitting and doing a bit of thinking and planning.

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