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Rock Climbers Training Manual - Anderson Bros
1:46:55 PM
I'm after a copy of this, but at USD75 shipped from USA it is too steep. Anyone know of a local stockist, or even have a second hand copy they don't want any more?
2:24:04 PM
Pinnacle sport has it listed on their website but out of stock : , maybe try to get in touch with them.

You could also try to find a shop in the UK/europe that would post to Oz, shipping might be cheaper.

That said RTCM it's a bit outdated but it's still a great book especially if you are after training plan easy to follow and don't want to have to create your own training plan. The latest edition of Training for climbing would be a better buy in my opinion :
2:43:48 PM
Thanks, the Horst book is available on Amazon AU and in eBook format too, so at $21 and with the benefit of instant gratification, I'll give it a crack. Thanks for the tip.
4:19:49 PM
Go thru my library when I get back from melbourne next week
4:42:17 PM
Thanks Michael, would like to do that anyway :-) Have a half-decent library of climbing books too, we can exchange borrow :-)
7:46:57 PM
they are all death and amputation
8:14:07 PM
Don't waist your time with training manuals. The best training for climbing is climbing itself. And don't underestimate the importance of rest days. My current climbing/rest day ratio is about 1/150. I haven't fallen off anything for a while now which proves that it must be working.

Your welcome.
6:22:51 PM
I can summarise the content quite quickly and save you time and money. ;-)
3 weeks of base climbing focussing on mileage
4 weeks of strength training i.e. hang boarding progressively adding weight
3 weeks campus board/power
2 weeks performance
rinse and repeat.

It probably works well if you are mostly a gym climber who lives far away from rocks. But I personally found the periodization hard to integrate with my climbing schedule (life).
1:45:44 PM
On 7/02/2017 mikllaw wrote:
>they are all death and amputation

Hmmm - doesn't sound like the training I need. Might satisfy my schadenfreude though! I'll come over some time with some of my own gems to trade for a while
1:56:54 PM
I bought Horst's book - finding it very interesting. Not as straightforward as RCTM, actually have to absorb and digest the material, then produce my own tailored program. Will take a while, but I'm enjoying the process. So far I have found out:

-Fortunately I have an excellent balance of strength, technique and mental requirements for climbing
-Unfortunately, while well balanced, they are all very weak
-Fortunately, the quickest and easiest gains are to be had on technique and mental aspects
-Unfortunately, I have worked hard for 30 years at ingraining poor technique and a huge array of rationalisations for being afraid / failing / not trying
-Fortunately the brain is plastic and capable of change, and Horst is here to help with my technique issues
-Unfortunately gravity was high last night and that causes brain and forearm solidification, so there was NO IMPROVEMENT in any aspect of my climbing, despite having read 5 chapters of the book and completed a self assessment.

I'm not sure this is working, but I'll give it another try tomorrow.
2:32:08 PM
30 years of engrams containing poor technique cannot be reversed in one night of climbing or reading a book...

3:20:30 PM
On 15/02/2017 dalai wrote:
>30 years of engrams containing poor technique cannot be reversed in one
>night of climbing or reading a book...

Thats just the engrams talking..first you need to destroy them..alcohol works well..then your brain is a clean slate.
12:56:46 PM
On 15/02/2017 dalai wrote:
>30 years of engrams containing poor technique cannot be reversed in one
>night of climbing or reading a book...

What!!? I paid $21 for the ebook, I was expecting an instant improvement.

Ok, I'll try again tonight. But I'll be really bitter if it hasn't worked. Rod, I cleaned the slate with a bottle of Limestone Coast Shiraz (couldn't find a Granite Slab Shiraz) and have hopefully purged any lingering engrams.
1:52:07 PM
I've done about 3 RPTM cycles now, and I've also done online training with a trainer for about 4 months. What I like about RPTM is the focus on efficiency of the training plan/session.

Online trainer had me doing huge amounts of volume, and I found it didn't make me better off than the 50% less volume the RTPM had me doing. If your heart is set on climbing really hard sport, and you need to maximise training around work/family, then I think the book might be for you.

A really good source of training info is the reddit sub r/climbharder - that's where all the internet's training nerds with desk jobs seem to wind up. - the mods there made a really good training wiki - - has a good summary of FAQ's on training and different approaches to hangboard training by Anderson Bros, Eva Lopez, Parsons, Maisch etc.

If you're crazy set on it, but don't want to pay $75 and can wait until the end of March, I can bring a copy with me when I move from US to Oz.

1:12:37 PM
Thanks for the info, I'll check the reddit & wiki, cheers

Appreciate the offer, but I'm fine for now with the Horst book, will use what I learn from that over the next 6 months, then have a USA trip myself, and will pick up the other book if I want it at that stage. Thanks for the offer.
4:08:09 PM
All good! Enjoy the US!

There are 16 messages in this topic.


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