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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New anchors at Araps - What do you reckon? 9-Jan-2017 At 9:26:48 PM kieranl
Message
On 9/01/2017 Wendy wrote:
>On 9/01/2017 kieranl wrote:
>>As to the Penny Dreadful anchors, which I had no involvement in, anything
>>that cuts down the traffic in the descent gully from Mitre Rock gets
>a
>>provisional tick in my book.
>
>I'd give it a tick if it was at the top of the cliff and also used by
>Cloaca and Parson's nose. It seems a bit like putting a rap station at
>the top of the first pitch of Euridice or D Major. There's a perfectly
>good second pitch above it and I can't really see a lot of sense to it.

People seem really attached to that nothing little wall at the top. It's hardly comparable (IMO) to the second piches of D Major or Euridice. Each to their own. But why is it OK to have a rap anchor at the first belay of Oceanoid if one on Penny Dreadful is not OK?

Actually went for a bit of a wander this evening. Not really practical to have one rap anchor serving both top of Parsons Nose and Penny Dreadful - getting between the two areas requires that one side would have to coil their rope and go fo a bit of a walk - or drag their rope across a gully and send stuff down it. Could probably do a 30m abseil to the ground from both sides of that gully but avoiding the gully bed to a rocky area at the base.

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