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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New anchors at Araps - What do you reckon? 9-Jan-2017 At 10:47:35 AM simey
On 9/01/2017 kieranl wrote:
>As to the Penny Dreadful anchors, which I had no involvement in, anything
>that cuts down the traffic in the descent gully from Mitre Rock gets a
>provisional tick in my book.
>The two arguments that I have heard against it :
>1. It spoils the finish up the nice little wall. You can still do the
>nice little wall if you want, and most people on their first journey up
>this area will still do it.But how many times do you want to do it? The
>last time I did Witch Hunt I left an abseil sling. Other times I have had
>the rest of the party abseil off then soloed out.
>2. It's a good place to practice building a trad anchor. Well you can
>still get your beginners to do this. You can even tell them to clip one
>of the bolts so at least one piece will be good.
>I haven't been back since the anchor went in but overall I think they're
>a good thing, primarily because of the reduction in traffic of people in
>the descent gully. Some of the reaction to them has also been quite over
>the top.

Those are all reasonable points although I don't think the descent has suffered from erosion issues as most of it is on rock. The adverse reaction from many climbers regarding these anchors is because they do seem out of place.

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