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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 18-May-2016 At 9:20:07 PM Macciza
DD - No it's not but I reckon you must be suffering a bit ...
What the bloody hell were all thos people doing freeing aids from climbs back in the day for? If not to make a difference by climbing the route in better style. Shit I reckon a lot of pitons will need to be replaced and lots of people will have to brush up on on their aiding so we can go back to the original style of ascent... How has everyone got so wrong for all these years?
Of course climbing it in a better style makes a bloody difference and freeing the need for bolts to aid your climbing of a mixed route is a valid reason for it to be a trad climb; it's part and parcel of the whole progression of climbing. Well at least it was till the advent of pleasure climbing....
No not retro-naming it at all, just modernising the style of ascent ....
Oh and original ascent style should be the basis for avoiding retros, ie if it is a trad route or trad project you certainly shouldn't be going and sticking ring bolts in it!

BB - Not at all but they can claim first Solo ascent. I'm just claiming the first fully free ascent of a mixed route....

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