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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Vic/NSW big wall 22-Jun-2014 At 7:48:38 PM Rocksinmyhead
On 20/06/2014 Ithomas wrote:
> It is important not to asume that climbers are smart or competent
>and to asume that on big lonely cliffs, shit can happen.

And then:
>A smart climber would probably not do Bastion Buttress at all

Well, the old Colvyn Rock guide (which is the most recent and/or popular print guide that I know of) describes it as a "classic", the Crag as " a great line and a good introduction to the Bluff", and the SRC online guide describes it as an "an alpine warm up ... an easy classic". So, how's a "smart" climber wanting to start climbing on Bluff mountain, without other info, going to come to that decision?

I agree Bastion can get serious if you get off route - I did ( went to far right near the top I think) and enjoyed the most sphincter tightening pitch of climbing I'd done at that point. It was way harder than the crux lower pitches, or anything on Cornerstone. But that was part of the fun, and certainly more memorable for it.

RichA, the bungles has some great climbing (e.g cornerstone), and soloing the ~2km yulindinda traverse at kaputar is one the best climbing experiences I've had, but it's a long way from Mansfield. I'd suggest thinking of them as part of a long road trip, and dropping in at the bluies on the way. If you're comfortable leading long climbs(200m+) and can solidly climb bolted 18's, add Bunny bucket to the list. And given your original question, you may want to look at the long ridges on mt Barney in queensland - I haven't done any, but they're only another 500km (read 5+ hours) past kaputar! Do this all (except bunny bucket) well before summer.

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