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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Abseiling tips, tricks, habits and advice 29-May-2014 At 9:11:30 AM lost tazmaniac

Message

OK.
I have two 9.1mm Ropes (60ms) obviously I don't use both of them (all the time) But on an 50m abseil thats what I'll be using. I use an ATC with a prussik (triple sliding hitch) above the ATC. I typically tie knots in the end, unless- a) I can see the deck, b)more concerned about the rope snagging.
I have seen both methods of prussik arrangements fail.
One lady, coming off Pharoahs with her prussik above the ATC, where the ATC bit the rope and she resorted to cutting the prussik.. to our horror..
Another with prussik below ran it into to the ATC and 'fed' it into the ATC.. and had to be semi rescued..

Typically I'm the first down the rope.. send the more experienced 'abseiler' down the rope to untangle, check, clear ect the line.. especially when it's pitch black and raining.. curious what others think of this ..

Of late I have experienced increased number of climbers who have a fear of abseiling to my surprise... and now have to specifically query new comers to their feelings and skills in relation to abseiling.. The last thing you want is, is to be half way down the abseil, and have one of the party 'bail' and go off to find an alternative way off the cliff.. I was always taught that the party should stay together..

I have tried the munters abseil.. on single and double ropes.. and feel comfortable using it.. and in someways prefer it..

So my top tip.. would be not to judge the person on the tools they use but HOW they approach and manage the risks involved..