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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Carrot failure @ Muline |
27-Nov-2013 At 5:27:26 PM |
crackalackin!
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Message |
On 27/11/2013 Tastrad wrote:
>I was comparing pitons to carrots which are essentially function as a circular
>piton. Some carrots are bombproof, but people are paranoid about them and
>want to replace them. But the point I was making is that there are old
>pitons at Araps (which are way dodgier than any carrot) such as on Snowblind
>and Lunatic, which remain. I climbed both routes last year and the old
>pins are still there. My understanding is that they remain to preserve
>the historical integrity of the route. So if such logic is applied to Serpentine
>for instance, leave Malcolms old bolts in if they are still solid.
The issue is that carrots are presumed by many (normally correctly) to be reliable on a sport route if they look ok, when it's quite clear that inspection doesn't really work for assessing security, and that carrots can go from OK to failure over a short period of time. The odd piton on a trad route is treated by almost everyone as dodgy.
You're just creating a smoke-screen over the real points being discussed. |
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