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General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot failure @ Muline 15-Nov-2013 At 5:08:47 PM sliamese

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while we're at the whole rebolting thing maybe ill add something...

after replacing a bunch of bolts on spurt it was interesting to see many of the mild steel bolts rusting from the inside out. they looked totally fine from the outside, but had extensive pitting and corrosion on the shaft of the dynabolt. not a cause for immediate concern but good to know that some rock in the gramps has moisture seeping from within the rock. thats why those spurt routes feel spoogy/wet on the patina holds some days.

as for those carrots, they are absolutely bomber, break at 30kN or so. When they're newly placed, before expansion and contraction in the sun/shade do their thing, before a million whippers are taken on them wiggling them ever closure to failure.... so not so bomber 30 years after the fact...

My biggest fear in all this though is a bad job being done replacing them, the inevitable new bolts on Serpentine better look nice! Please use glue-ins(U's or rings) if you do it too for a longer lasting solution!!