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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes 32
63% 
No 19
37% 

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
Author
Should burnley be reset as a traverse venue?
kp
24/09/2013
7:47:48 PM
Perhaps the most important issue in victoria right now. Burnley, the once mighty endurance venue has recently been set with basic up boulder problems leaving minimal traverses. So what is the verdict melbourne??
mikllaw
24/09/2013
7:59:52 PM
Need a third option "Move to Sydney"

ajfclark
24/09/2013
8:11:41 PM
Can't you just make up traverses?

rodw
Online Now
24/09/2013
8:44:44 PM
Isn't that what all your bluestone is for?

nmonteith
24/09/2013
11:06:20 PM
Chris Sharma was asking about this fabled venue. In a lost in translation moment I accidentally sent him to the blue-stone bird-shite covered pox under Fed Square. He was not impressed. True story.

nmonteith
25/09/2013
8:31:29 AM
In a serious response to the question...

When the original glue-up Burnely was created it was designed as a training tool for route climbing, it was not considered a 'bouldering' venue. Any short 'up' problems were rarely done.

The 'new' gym hold Burnley was supposed to replace the glue-up Burnley, so I would have thought the endurance traverse aspect would take precedence.

Most people's home woodies can handle 'up' problems, but are nowhere near big enough for traverse problems.

One problem with traverse problems is they can get annoying with lots of climbers, especially if people start cutting laps back and forth.

When the 'new' Burnely was opened it contained a lot of traverse problems that were very popular, but this didn't seem to stop a myriad of up problems as well. Why not a 50/50 mix?

Eliminating all traverses seems to be counter to the original aim of this facility (as a replacement for the glue-up traverse)

ajfclark
25/09/2013
8:57:48 AM
On 25/09/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>One problem with traverse problems is they can get annoying with lots of climbers, especially if people start cutting laps back and forth.

This used to be an issue back when I went to Burnley and I get the impression that it's been steadily gaining popularity with the lights and so on. How busy is it down there these days?
maxdacat
25/09/2013
9:06:58 AM
On 25/09/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Why not a 50/50 mix?

I agree....most gym bunnies i see rarely bother with traverses or circuits, but it's a great way to build endurance. I reckon most people fall of because they lack stamina and get pumped not because they can't do the move. Mindless adherence to set problems won't necessarily make you a better climber.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/09/2013
9:16:27 AM
I have never climbed there, but am aware that there are three walls, and can see the issues nm raised.
Re the 50/50 thing, it might work better if it is biased towards the easier vertical wall having more 'up' problems, and the medium-hard wall/s having more traverse?

Done this way would cater for most of the ability spread/s of the broad user groups (introductory vs hard core trainers), and keep the fun aspect for all involved??

The voting being even at 6 all (so far), would support having both...
DSPIES
25/09/2013
11:14:07 AM
I'd like to see it go back to traverse. Just my 2cw.

when i was down there last, we felt like we got more out of the traverse, particularly as we can go to lactic for up probs.

shortman
25/09/2013
11:50:29 AM
On 24/09/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Chris Sharma was asking about this fabled venue. In a lost in translation
>moment I accidentally sent him to the blue-stone bird-shite covered pox
>under Fed Square. He was not impressed. True story.

Gold. Not much shit down there though, just a fine layer of dirt ready to spit you off constantly.

D.Lodge
25/09/2013
1:22:51 PM
If you want endurance there is nothing wrong with linking harder up problems into easier down ones and repeat for as long as you can.
dalai
25/09/2013
4:52:18 PM
Always was meant to be a replacement for the original pumper traverse. Also then offered a different training facility to complement and not compete with the indoor venues...

I agree with KP that its primary aim should be again a traverse venue with up problems set secondary to the traverses.
kg
25/09/2013
5:08:37 PM
The middle/35 degree wall has always been best for traverses. Perhaps leave the 45 with up problems and reset the 35 wall....

stugang
25/09/2013
8:27:43 PM
On 25/09/2013 D.Lodge wrote:
>If you want endurance there is nothing wrong with linking harder up problems
>into easier down ones and repeat for as long as you can.

Not the most insightful comment as that's an argument that can be used both ways. And its not just about training endurance, a lot of people enjoy the challenge of trying a longer, harder link up for which a preset "route" is preferable.

To make the place either 'traverse only' or 'problem only' is silly and divisive - the place is clearly big enough to accommodate both, as well as a few random smaller holds to give options for making up your own problems.

I went along to multiple weekend workbees - including some of the shittiest ones in terms of the work required to build/excavate the place , as well as donating hundreds of bucks worth of holds, bolts, the
edgeboard and allan keys and am pretty pissed off that the character, history and intent of the venue was changed overnight on a whim.
marky
25/09/2013
10:53:24 PM
So who made the call to change it from the original burnly traverse style to freebie boulder gym??? It's a communty wall so therefore it should have been put towards the climbing community as a vote to see what people want. I believe this was never done. Who were the individuals that organized the reset?
james
26/09/2013
1:59:28 AM
when it was first set, the 35 wall had 2-3 traverses, plus a couple up problems. There was at least 1 (maybe 2?) traverse on the 45 wall, plus lots of ups. Then at least 1 traverse on the vert wall. You can't train endurance simply on up problems.
If I still lived on Melbyawn I'd be pissed if there were no traverse problems there.

ironcheff
26/09/2013
7:46:42 AM
Have some of both. Coloured holds for up and coloured tape for traverse. Holds can serve both purposes.

shiltz
26/09/2013
12:01:19 PM
It was a great training venue before this latest reset. Not sure what led to the current set-up but just seems to be a poor duplicate of the Lactic Factory now.

Stugang
26/09/2013
7:09:47 PM
I should add that I don't doubt the people involved in the reset were well intentioned

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
There are 32 messages in this topic.

 

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