Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|Bailing on a trad route, past halfway on your rope
||8-Sep-2013 At 1:10:53 AM
|Down climb until you get to a solid piece of gear,
Back it up with a couple of other solid pieces of gear ( at least one).
Equalise those little rascals with your least favourite carabiner .making sure you don't unclip from the initial piece of gear you climbed down to. (otherwise you wouldn't be on belay)
Take a sling or a quickdraw and clip in short to the anchor like your'e a sport climber.
Draw up some slack on the lead rope and tie a figure eight on a bite with a meter or so of slack.
Clip into that (you are still on belay) with a screwgate biner and then untie initial tie in knot.
Tie the end of the lead rope and your weird back rope together.
Attach your belay/rappel device to the rope,making. sure all the knots are on one side of the anchor.
Unclip from the figure eight on a bite.
Abseil very gingerly.
If shit scared, clip into (with the unknotty side of the rope) to any solid gear on the way down. It probably won't save you but you'll seem to be less shit scared
If you find a bolt or a tree, repeat the above, with less fear.
Often down climbing to a better stance, having a bit of a rest (up to 30 mins) and then going for it, can work. Sometimes it doesn't.
Climbing with both ropes, actually tied to you, could help to.
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