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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Interesting retro-bolting discussion 6-Aug-2013 At 6:32:07 PM mikllaw
True ODH, (seppos are much less ethically flexible than Aussies) there's also been a change in how pitons are seen, in the bad old days they were seen as super ethical (not-bolts). Particularly in terms of new aid routes on El Cap, as pitons forced you to follow lines, while bolts didn't. I think they are great when freshly placed, but they weaken rapidly (so you're not doing the same climb as the FA) and replacing them can make a mess.

So I'd argue that replacing pitons with bolts isn't a big difference.

Of course, the FA with toproping may have spaced the pitons and made it pretty runout for an onsight. I'd say that making things runout by heavy pre-inspection is bad, except that anything I ever put up probably falls in that boat.

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