DMM "Bug". (Assorted Anodised colours. I have some Red and Grey as pictured...) Great all-rounder with exceptional friction. IMO)
NB NEW lighter model. For a short time only and while stocks last...
Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|Sport climbers - why don't you climb trad?
||Wednesday, 30 January 2013 At 10:41:30 AM
|I have of recent moved away from trad to sport or top roping. As I've got ancient (over 40) I have found that trad has issues for me. Injuries from sports (other than climbing) affect my ability to sustain a full day of trad climbing. Also as I take my kids climbing I play it safe and often trad lead a route to set up as a top rope or leave the pro and use as a feux sport climb.
I also find I don't have the need to run around a crag hitting different routes. I'm not out to impress or prove anything, just a fun day out. So I often set a route as above and then climb it a heap of times with variation.
With kids sport is great. Cheap, in case they decide its not for them. That happens daily with other things. Builds confidence. I worry less. More climbing time.
Is it "real" climbing if its not trad? Who cares. It's like saying chips with vinegar or tomato sauce. I was never an above average climber and now I find average is something in the past. I am secure enough not to listen to those who bait others about their "type" of climbing, nor due I find the need to do it.
As for the ethics of bolts, etc. if you want to trad a bolted route - ignore the bolts, don't use them. Get of the high horse, it's not the crime of the century.
Having said all that, don't get me wrong, trad is better. If you have time, money, training, ability. If not climb anyway.
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