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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Advice on half ropes |
15-Jan-2013 At 1:34:19 PM |
pecheur
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Message |
On 15/01/2013 martym wrote:
>Interesting - the mammut
>website says:
>"But here you have the choice between twin rope technique, where both
>ropes run parallel through the protection and half rope technique, where
>the «left» and «right» ropes run separately through different protection
>points. "
>I always thought twinroping doubles was a no-no? I'm sure it's been discussed
>a dozen times here & other websites... but that's their official line!?
>
A lot of modern doubles are rated as twins as well (does not apply vice versa).
>Also been discussed a thousand times before, but I've never quite grasped
>is why only 55kg??
>"Half ropes are tested singly with a 55 kg mass and must withstand
>five standard falls. "
>M9 to the rescue with a link...?
>
Because it was to test a "worst" case scenario i.e. a near factor 2 on a single strand. They could do a single 80 kg test however they worked out that a single test gives too high an error banding so they reduced the load and increased the number of tests. They correlated that anything that passed five 55 kg tests would pass one 80 kg test. |
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