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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Rock and Ice: Bolting guide 12-Jun-2012 At 7:33:21 PM Jim Titt
Message
On 12/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Meh, it's a couple of dudes who want to be the global authority on all
>things bolting without doing the work required to be the global authority
>(i.e. travel the world and learn about what works and doesn't work in every
>location).
>
IŽve no idea about Gear Guy on Rock and Ice so your criticism may be valid, certainly some of the things the Americans are fixed on with bolting are a bit different to the rest of the world. IŽll be travelling across the world to the ASCA convention in Las Vegas to see things for myself and talk to them. The Red River pdf was written by Rick Weber, he is an engineer with considerable knowledge of bolting sandstone and who has done more testing in sandstone in the USA than anyone else. He is the owner of Muir Valley which is a substantial area in the Red River area.

>The bit which cracks me up is Jim Titt's logic for not recessing rings.
>It seems the only reason offered is that it would make a standardised lab
>test harder to design. So the recommendation is to place bolts in a way
>which has been demonstrated to have a couple of disadvantages and no advantages,
>just because it simplifies the task of lab testing the bolt design?!

I gave two reasons why no manufacturer recommends recessing rings, not why you shouldnŽt recess them but it appears you wish to make your own intepretation of what I wrote. The issue of the eye dimensions would not be resolved by redesigning the test but altering the standard itself which is unlikely to ever happen for good reason.

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