Wow. I just had a scary image of someone hanging halfway down a cliff, with a drill in one hand, and carefully consulting the how-to article in their copy of Rock And Ice in the other.
(I remember this recent pdf I saw, put together by the Red River Gorge guidebook authors on rebolting, that quoted a lot of mikl's work and was talking up the superiority of glue-in bolts, so clearly some of them are thinking a bit harder)
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