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General Climbing Discussion

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Quotes 8-Jun-2004 At 5:33:22 PM Damietta

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Immaculate Deception was a solo 35m grade 22 on the central/northern slabs area of Booromba, originally given grade 24. It was later led by Mike Law-Smith after a top rope inspection. There are a number of similar routes nearby without pro put up by M L-S and Richard Watts. Those guys were capitalising on how much granite climbing they had been doing at the time. After a while climbing those slabs is like going through the motions. However, if you're out of practice, they are deadly hard.......

Moral Turpitude is a 23/34 on the south buttress at Booromba. John Smart added two bolts to the route for the first ascent - despite numerous lead attempts by Smart without bolts. The controversy arose, because Mr Smart and others had earlier eschewed the use of bolts, chalk and training in favour of the off the couch, onsight, trad style of climbing - and had threatened to give the bash to anyone who didn't follow suite. The bolting, though necessary, was an action dripping with hypocrisy in that context. However, even with the bolts the route is run out and hard, and is rarely repeated

Another quote from the legendary "ACT Granite" guidebook is "if it's got a runner it's not bold" - can't remember who was responsible for that one, it's a goodun