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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Carrot bolts with knotted sling? Please help 4-Jan-2012 At 10:26:16 AM deadbudgy

Message

On 4/01/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>some knots can weaken a sling.
>in order of preference:
>best practice use a bolt plate with a solid gate biner (not a wire gate
>biner)
>use a sling to keep the bracket in close to the rock if the bolt droops/hangs
>out too far.
>use a wire/nut on the bolt if you don't have a bracket.
>use a sling if you have nothing better and want to continue up the climb,
>but don't just hang it on the bolt, like a coat on a coat rack, fix it

This is good advice. If the bolt is particularly bad, ie. droopy or sticks out a long way, then a sling can be beneficial as you can hitch it close to the base of the bolt and mini
ise leverage. I agree it is a decision that needs to be made at the time considering all the consequences. Bolt plate + solid straight gate biner is best practice.
>in a safe manner that will keep it from slipping off without weakening
>the sling.
>A girth hitch, choke, or larks foot,( all the same hitch) will weaken
>by up to 20 percent.
>I just loop it a few turns around the bolt and clip the sling with a quickdraw,
>tho this is not my first choice.