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Seating trad gear vs making your partner happy 16-Nov-2011 At 10:44:46 PM citationx

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On 16/11/2011 kieranl wrote:
>On 16/11/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>
>>I disagree Kieran - usually with a toprope setup you (hopefully!) have
>>quite a bit of redundancy - 3 or 4 pieces in the system. So if one fails
>>there are backups. This isn't always possible on lead.
>Hopefully they'll put in that many and get at least one right. The problem
>I see is is that you are much more likely to be weighting the toprope than
>the lead rope, even if it's just to lower off.

When I had my stab at being "professionally taught" (Uni club paid a well-known blueys climber who teaches) we were made to set up 3-4 piece anchors at the bottom of the crag for a couple of hours to begin with. We'd set them up at head-height/above and then equalise it, clip in and sit on the resulting anchor (bums just brushing the ground).
As the day progressed we did leading on easy climbs and setting up anchors up top to lower off and subsequently top-rope.