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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Seating trad gear vs making your partner happy 16-Nov-2011 At 7:56:19 PM rolsen1

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I'll bite, obviously you need to seat them but you don't have to jump up and down on them, extending is more likely to help a wire stay seated than welding it in. Also placing lots of gear means you'll need to rip more than one to deck. I'd rather see a leader likely to fall (or not) place lots of pieces well extended rather than welding in intermittent "jesus" pieces.

We climbed with a guy called Clarky (he was from northern NSW) 15 years ago at Araps, his seating of wires was ridiculous. Brought a few new terms into our climbing lexicon though eg "you really clarked this one" or "this wire is clarked"

Having said that I'm one of those over cautious climbers that Neil is talking about rarely fall far (and doesn't rip gear)

Edit/footnote: we top roped for a year and half before we started leading - building top rope anchors is another good way to learn about how to place gear that will hold.