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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Seating trad gear vs making your partner happy 16-Nov-2011 At 5:55:25 PM citationx

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Depends on where you're talking about. I find that when climbing trad at araps, I often only need one good "thunk" of the nut to see that it's set. I find it rare (though I've only climbed up to 21) that yanking, tugging and lobbing off onto it any more than the first time determines whether or not is going to hold. one good tug and you can see that it's seated properly and not going to come out sideways etc.
If your'e talking the blueys with small nuts, well, that's a little different due to the variability of the strength of the rock (esp in the sandy, flakey sections ;-)). As a result I may have two or three shots at setting it correctly.
Having said that, I've not lost any gear due to seconds not being able to remove gear, and i've not died, bonus on two fronts.
I try not to overcam my cams as a general rule, though i have had a few walk further into the crack, but it's the exception, not the rule...