Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Mismatched belay 26-Oct-2011 At 2:57:45 PM citationx

Message

Unless you're like some people I've heard of, who randomly "slip" off holds (seriously, who does that?) resulting in falls, I find that giving a heads up to your belayer helps. Sure, you're still going to yank your belayer off the ground, but i found that if they're switched on and you've warned them, by taking in and "squatting" quickly when you fall, their downward motion somewhat offsets your "yanking them up" motion a bit such that they don't end up being pulled through the first draw.
The only time I yanked my diminuitive belayer's hand into the first quickdraw is when I fell from around a roof - that is, she didn't realise I'd fallen until it was too late. I'd never yanked her as high in all the other times when I warned her I may fall, and did. (Having said that, I don't think the weight difference would've been as big as what you're likely to have)