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General Climbing Discussion

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Visiting from the UK. Need advice. 21-Sep-2011 At 8:01:41 PM citationx

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On 21/09/2011 Wendy wrote:
>or Scorpian. People will inevitably tell you RPs, but I continue to profess
>they are mostly unnecessary, unless you aim for routes such as Missing
>Link or Auto de fe.

I agree with wendy. I've done every *** (except auto da fe and the 19 thingo next to scorpion, admittedly) up to 21, and every ** up to 19 and countless other routes without ever placing an RP (according to the blue ~2004 guidebook). I also did missing link and the 18 next to it without them (another admission, i may have felt a little safer with an RP on the 18, rather than the #3 BD nut sideways that i did get).
I'd just take a set of nuts and double up on the #2,3,4 (DMM/Wild Country sizing - #4,5,6 if you're using BD), and take 0.3-3 camalots (i'd drop the #3 first, then the #0.3 if i had to shave my rack down further). never hurts to take an extendable draw or three either.