DMM "Shadow" screwgate. 24 7 9kN. My favourite anchor screwgate.
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|Bolting at Piddo
||Friday, 13 May 2011 At 7:04:10 AM
|On 12/05/2011 davidn wrote:
>I think the thing is - there's massive, massive, huge, massive numbers
>of trad climbs at low grades.
that is my point - there are heaps of things to climb, we don't need to create more of them.
I just don't see adding a few sub-18 sport
>climbs as being the impetus for eventually converting every low grade climb
>into a bolt-fest.
Of course I don't think it's going to turn everything into a bolt fest
There are a bunch of other arguments you're making,
>but those are really conditional arguments (e.g. based on the presumption
>that sport climbs are going to be poorly bolted,
I'm not even saying poorly bolted, just that falls on easy sport are going to be potentially hazardous because of the nature of easy climbing regardless of reasonably spaced bolts
or that any sport climb
>under 18 is going to be poxy,
I'm standing by this as highly likely!
or that people can't learn to bring a few
>cams on their sport climb to fill the 3 metre gaps
in which case, they may as well put their skills to use on the many many trad options! or maybe the route didn't need bolts to protect it in the first place.
, or for that matter
>that everyone will have enough money for much more expensive trad gear
>vs a few quickdraws).
How many of us were poor students scavenging a rack together? I don't think poverty prevented us from managing to go climbing pre sport days.
Not to mention the Spaz argument - harden the f---
>up, i climb 'hard' so you're all pussies. Vintage One Day Hero? Perhaps,
>but a one track record becomes a bit monotonous.
I have a bit of sympathy for the HTFU argmument here - climbing is not a lounge chair sport. Like it or not, it comes with a bunch of extras, like hard work, technical skills, getting scared and getting spanked. If you want comfortised, stay in the gym. Hang out with people who can put ropes up on routes for you. There are already options for the timid adventurer. Or broaden your horizons a bit.
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