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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Top rope through anchors (solutions) 29-Apr-2011 At 9:07:51 AM bw
Message
On 29/04/2011 RNM wrote:
>On 28/04/2011 bw wrote:
>>Easily replaceable wear parts. Easy.
>
>Perfect solution! Just pop a couple of shackles on the anchors when you
>head out to which ever uber popular crag you visit next.
>
>Straight shackles are 'normal' ones with out a twist, otherwise called
>a mallion or rapide... very user unfriendly as they usually hang flat against
>the rock and therefore twist the rope, unless you put two on each anchor.
>
>Twisted shackles have an obvious twist that is designed to have the rope
>running smoothly without twisting.
>
>Either works.
>
>Head to www.climbinganchors.com.au, and you can order some without even
>leaving your seat! Nice if the shackle is rated, and remember to take
>a crescent to tighten them with.
>

yep, this is where is starts: from tmarsh's ringbolt thread:



"The chain is for lower-offs. The idea is that the ring itself is a permanent installation, with the bottom link being the thing that gets worn. When it gets worn to an unsafe point, you can cut it off with bolt cutters and replace it with a shackle or a mallion. The top link keeps the rope direction parallel to the cliff."

Turns the issue from rebolting to merely replacing a link = far less time/effort/money
*of course we should still do our best to minimise wear as far as practicable, but I always thought lower-offs were for lowering off of.

There are 27 replies to this topic.

 

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