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Action Direct
Dai Koyamada's 2005 redpoint of Action Direct (9a) in Germany's Frankenjura

Format DVD Category Non-Fiction
Title Action Direct  Mins 45 
Starring Dai Koyamada  RRP $46.00 AUD 
Director   Reviews
Edition   Ave Rating ***** (5.00 of 5)

Reviews  

User Comments
Nottobetaken
29/08/2006
*****
You could be forgiven for thinking that this DVD is a quick 1 minute runtime of Dai Koyamada's October 2005 redpoint of Action Direct, the legendary 1991 F9a route of Wolfgang Gullich's in the Frankenjura (Germany). It is however a much longer film (though not too long) charting the story behind Koyamada's lifetime goal of climbing one of the world's hardest routes.

This includes personal insights into his ambition to climb it, the training required, and the level of persistence needed (not to mention the power). It also documents Koyamada's frustrations - particularly when he blows a finger on one of the many one-finger pockets on the route (you can hear the crack) - necessitating a rehabilitation period of some 10 days rest, followed by some bouldering 'to see how the finger performs'. The fact that he does this on problems ranging from V11 to V13 - re-defines the term 'rehabilitation'.

Koyamada spent 50 days in the Frankenjura climbing routes and bouldering - and the bouldering footage is very good indeed, with classic looking problems such as Pumpgun (V13) Zeberus (V14) Snooker (V13) and Full Moon (V11) amongst others.

Ultimately though - the film is about the 15 move powerfest that is Action Direct - a climb put up more than 15 years ago - and still one of the hardest around. Japanese - with English subtitles.
 

 

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