Goto Chockstone Home

  Tech Tips

      Sponsored By

    For All Your Climbing Gear!

Black Diamond: SET of 3 "C4" Cams and 3 matching wire Gates. Camalot sizes 1, 2 & 3 and 3 matching "Neutrino" karabiners. N/B Comes with a FREE carry bag.  $295.00
19% Off

Climbing Media Reviewed
[ Books | Movies | Screen Shots | Best Stuff | Aussie Titles | Latest Reviews | Reviewed Only | All ]

A (very) short film focusing on the famous home training board of Malcolm Smith

Format DVD Category Non-Fiction
Title Splinter  Mins
Starring Malcolm Smith  RRP  
Director Slackjaw  Reviews
Edition   Ave Rating **** (4.00 of 5)


User Comments
Brought out as a short film in its own right - but later added to the end of the Blood Sweat & Bagels DVD as an extra.
This 4 minute film (yes - that's 4 whole minutes) is strictly for training/bouldering addicts only - though others may like it from a more amusement type of level. The film attempts to capture an insight into Scottish climber Malcolm Smith's home training board, offering a brief voice-over by the man in question - before cutting to the chase and catching on film one of the hardest pieces of climbing in the world - that being - the HPWSS (or the Hubble Problem With Sit-Start).

Smith famously came 'out of nowhere' at the age of 18 and upped his climbing level from grade 31 to 34 with one ascent - the much coveted 2nd ascent of Ben Moon's route Hubble (8c+/34) at Raven Tor in the Peak District. The ascent at the time was the biggest news in climbing - with people wondering how such a young 'nobody' could suddenly come from nowhere and make the second ascent of the world's hardest route. Just to confirm that he was on the right track with his training - he returned 6 months later and ran 3 laps of the same climb, this time doing the crux statically.

The key to Smith's success was his personal training philosophy and self-taught programs - but more importantly the model of the routes crux which he had designed on his home board. According to Smith, his model was a whole grade harder than the route - a fact confirmed during the film when he states that he has only ever been able to repeat the problem 2 times in its 10 year existence (despite being one of the top boulderers in the world). Incredibly, he does it again - just as Ben Pritchard is setting up the camera!

The film is shot in black and white, and Smith's accent is hard to follow - but given the length of the flick, that shouldn't matter. Good for a bit of psyche before your own training session - or just for a laugh. Either way: If you're not into it at all - then at least you can just press STOP once the credits roll up at the finish of Blood, Sweat etc.

See the slackjaw site for details: 


Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.
All text, images and video on this site are copyright. Unauthorised use is strictly prohibited.