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The youth of England show the french how it's done...
||Jerry Moffat, Ben Moon, Johnny Dawes
|| (4.00 of 5)
|This videa is a great sportclimbing flick. Shot in Buoux it has everything a quality 80's B grade production should have. Lycra, attitude and bad music are all featured in spades. Ben moon has long hair and jerry is beyond thin.
Classic routes featured are Le Minimum, La Rose et le Vampire, Tabou Zizi and Le Spectre des Surmutants.
and the hardest route in the world at the time ...some desperate ben moon route high on the cliff 'Agincourt'... the first ever 8c. The climbing looks like desperate finger pockets. Infact every route looks bloody desperate on small pockets. These guys are friggen strong as they cut loose many times off crappy holds... Makes u realise how far shoe technology has come.
The commentry is from a non climbers perspective.. its very funny. "This is the climbing equivilant of running a world record 100m". Overall, this is a charming video/ documentry. Worth every $ !!
|Buoux 8c - a 25 minute short film made for British television - came out at a time when the crag of Buoux in Provence (France) was still the top destination in the world for hard-end climbers. From the mid-80's up until the time the film was made (1989/90) the crag hosted the testpieces of the day, including the famous 'Buoux Trio' of Le Minimum, Le Spectre and La Rage du Vivre (all 8b+/32), along with other such classics like La Rose et la Vampire (8b/31), Chouca (8a+/30) and Tabou Zi Zi (8b/31) to name but a few. Unsurprisingly then, the French were regarded as the best climbers in the world.
The film attempts to light-heartedly disprove this theory by showing 3 of Britain's best climbers - Ben Moon, Johnny Dawes and Jerry Moffatt - climbing a large bulk of these top routes. The patriotic narrative aside - this is a well made production that shows just how hard some of these routes really are - even with today's top standard. Highlights include the campus move-like crux of Le Minimum, the La Rose cross-through move, the last-move crux of Le Spectre, and best of all - the attempt (by Moon) to repeat his own route Agincourt (8c/33) - at the time heralded as the first recognised 8c in the world.
If you can still get a copy of it (try Rock and Run or Cordee), then do so. It's a little slice of history.
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