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Climbing Media Reviewed
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Flash Training
How to Rock Climb Series

Format Book Category Instructional
Title Flash Training  Pages 184 
Author Eric J. Horst  RRP $22.00 AUD 
Publisher Chockstone Press  Reviews
Edition (February 1997)  Ave Rating *** (3.00 of 5)

Reviews  

User Comments

Mike
6/07/2002
***
Flashing Training is worth the read if you're at that point in your climbing career where you've progressed as far as you think you can go without doing any sport specific training, and actually possess the motivation to take it to the next level and train. For a lot of people rock climbing is just a recreation, but for some it's a sport.

If you take your climbing seriously enough to consider training to improve this is a good place to start. It certainly got me fired up to try different workouts, though like many things, the novelty soon wore off, and I went back to my usual bouldering and weights program. However, there's a lot of good stuff in the book and if you possess the energy and drive it will give you direction.

Includes numerous black and white photo and diagrams. The areas covered are as follows:

1. Motor Learning and Performance
A series of essays discussing topics such as the skill of body movements (cognitive, motor and autonomous), the relationship between fitness and skill, cross training, etc.

2. Strength Training
Planning workouts, strength vs technique training, identifying weaknesses, specific exercises such as variations on chins ups, lock offs, finger / wrist training, campus training, workouts in the climbing gym, massage, stretching, etc.

3. Technique Training
The moves, the grips, bouldering, de-pumping, tapping up for cracks, etc.

4. Mental Training
Motivation, visualisation, relaxation, controlling emotion, focus, etc.

5. Diet & Nutrition
Protein and where to find it, facts about fat, carbs, recovering, energy, sports drinks, etc.

6. Injury Case Studies

7. Building the hom gym
How to build, workouts, campusing, etc.

8. Interviews
Flash talks to some well known climbers about training. 


Further Reading:
Amazon - Details on purchasing, Reviews, etc.
Training For Climbing - Eric's web site.

 

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