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#4. "Alien EVO". 25% lighter. Size 3/4 - YELLOW. Rated 10 kN
Expansion Range 15 - 25mm. Extendable 25cm dyneema yellow sling.
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Royal Robbins instructional manual
||La Siesta Press
|| (3.50 of 5)
|Although visually very dated now, this instructional guide was a real turning point for the American climbing scene - it came right at the crest of the wave of the 'clean climbing' ethic. The author has many interesting insights, which looking back now with hindsight were way ahead of the pack. The title covers Hip Belays, Hand Jamming and Piton placement through to ethics and style.
|My edition of this book is 1971 (not 1982 as listed above), so its been around a while now and Rupert is right when he 14/04/04 said;
>Although visually very dated now, this instructional guide was a real >turning point for the American climbing scene.
>(snip) The author has many interesting insights, which looking back >now with hindsight were way ahead of the pack.
I find the content still as applicable today as they ever were, in terms of Ethics and Style. It also covers other considerations like climbing strategy (looking ahead, rhythm and resting); which are broad concepts not espoused too much in todays 'clip and go' learning type books.
Its fundamental principles are timeless, and it is sufficiently short in length that todays reader can browse it for historical reasons, or to simply gain a broader understanding of the 'climb is a work of art'.
Some of the photos in it are in the category of 'expert' rather than basic, as they depict climbers on the hardest routes of the day! (The cover being a prime case in point).
It amazes me a little to see it still being sold in shops today roughly 35 years later! ..., although it was sufficiently popular at the time to warrant a followup sequel 'Advanced Rockcraft', (subject of another review addition I will now post).
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