|Centurion Walls, Grampians
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This guide contributed by Neil Monteith. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a
dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has
been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be
incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no
responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If
there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing
printer friendly PDF version. ]
This is a new semi-sport crag located
in the Northern Grampians, Victoria. The rock is steep orange sandstone
walls with the occasional cave thrown in for good measure. Most of the
better routes are grade 20+ and protected mainly by bolts. Red tags mark
routes that are still in project status - please keep off them.
Right: Nick McKinnon on Killer
Wolf (21). All photos on this page by Neil Monteith.
The bolts used on this cliff are either
stainless steel Dynabolts, Truebolts or glue-in ringbolts. Most climbs
have rap anchors to facilitate easy descent and cleaning. The first
ascentists have endeavoured to camouflage fixed equipment by painting
hangers and rings with matt textured paint. The first bolts on routes are
usually relatively high off the deck so a stick clip is useful.
Much of the rock
is soft, so try and avoid climbing within 24 hours of recent rain. Routes
such as Winged Corpse, Psychotic Episode and Killer Wolf are good wet
weather routes. A light rack of gear is required for many of the routes -
a single set of cams and wires will suffice on all apart from Kublai Khan
or Stone Temptress. There is still some potential for new lines to be
Above Left: View of Centurion
Walls. The best routes are in the Lower Centurion Wall,
primarily sector 2 & 4, while the Upper Centurion Wall
(sectors 5 & 6) contains some more chossy lines.
GR 299066. These cliffs are in
the Mt Difficult Range (Nth Grampians), in Victoria, Australia. From Roses
Gap Junction follow the Roses Gap/Mt Zero Road south for 1.2 km (24km from Delley’s Bridge). Up on the R is an obvious orange wall with a large grey
wall above. The upper wall has a very obvious arch formation. Find a big
rock cairn marking the start of the access track. Follow the red marker
tape for about 15 minutes, walking through light scrub to arrive at the
centre of the Lower Wall.
If you want to camp the two best bets
are the Fire Dam about 500m along Halls Gap/Mt Zero Rd from Roses Gap or
Troopers Creek campsite (payment required) which is several kilometres
west along Roses Gap Rd.
LOWER CENTURION WALL
Above: Lower Centurion Wall. Routes are listed from right to left. The first
route climbs the orange overhung wall about 10m right of the impressive ring
bolted buttress of Psychotic Episode (26).
Above Left: Lower Centurion Wall topo. (Click for
enlargement). Above Right: Neil Monteith on Psychotic Episode (26)
Photo Kathy Dicker.
1) Progressive Happy House 15m 18 *
Start up and head diagonally right on big horizontal breaks to
vertical reachy transition. Up easily to top and tree belay. Brings lots
of cams. FFA Neil Monteith, Jono Shmidt & Nick McKinnon
2) Push It Upstairs 15m 23
Sandbag one move wonder. Starts the same as PHH. Move up on big
horizontals for 7m . Traverse left for 3m and up to another good slot.
Dyno crux then up wall to belay tree. FFA Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith
1st May 1999
3) Psychotic Episode 15m 26 ***
The best line of the cliff. Flakes leading up overhung orange
buttress. Four rings leads to double ring lower-off. FFA Nick McKinnon
29th July 2000
3B) Stone Temptress 20m 21 **
Start up Kublia Khan for four metres then begin the never ending
overhung hand-traverse right on superb stone to end at Psychotic Episode’s
ring bolts. Bring every cam you own up to size 4, and lots of slings. Add
a few grades if you pump out easily! FFA Neil Monteith 05th November 2000
4) Kublai Khan 45m 21/22 *
Old guard route with powerful climbing through unfriendly territory.
The grade depends on the path taken through all the overhangs. Start about
10m L of IC. Climb orange and black striped rock to first overhang.
Traverse 3m L then up steeply until a traverse line leads back R between
more overhangs. Committing moves over the next overhang lead to a dark red
patch of rock and a hanging corner/weakness. Up this to a good stance 3m
below summit roof. Up to the roof which is turned on the R. Can be led in
two pitches. FFA Keith Lockwood& Norm Booth 3rd November 1996
5) Ghengis Khan 45m 19
Interesting wall climbing with some suspect rock. Starts about 5m left
of KK at the L most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a
small wind blown scoop immediately L of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m
to the small bush on R. Traverse L for 4m along the break then straight up
the wall above to finish just L of the dead tree at the top of the cliff.
FFA Campbell Mercer & Alan Hope 4th November 1995
6) Anti-Christ Superstar 20m 25/26 *
Start 20m left of Ghengis Khan below large scoop in rock. Up broken
wall past BR to scoop. Follow five rings left across steep wall (crux) to
big break. Shuffle right along this for a few moves (2 rings) to no hands
rest in slot. Straight up a few moves to twin pocket jugs then right
(ignore high ring) to break and good cam slot. Up again on pockets to jugs
and pumpy conclusion past last ring to twin ring lower off. Extend runners
to avoid rope drag. FFA Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon 2.9.2001
7) Compressor Route 23m 27 **
Starts as for Anti-Christ Super Star but takes a direct finish up the
head-wall. Climb ACSS to rest at half height. Move up and L to big pocket.
Crimping finish straight up to chains. 9 RB’s and DBB lower off. Bolted
3rd June 2000. FFA Nick McKinnon 17th.August 2002
8) Killer Wolf 15m 21 **
The scoop and roof about 15m left of CR. Best warm-up of the cliff. Into
small cave (FH), big roof flake (cams) to small rest and FH. Head left on
jugs past ring bolt then straight up to double rings. The direct straight
up from second FH is still Nick’s project (26+). FFA Nick McKinnon, Neil
Monteith & Adam Demmert 4th June 2000.
9) Lexicon 25m 17
Up the centre of the black streak 10m left of Killer Wolf through two
overhangs and finishing up R of the small bush at two thirds height. FFA
Campbell Mercer, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn 4th November 1999.
Above: Lower Centurion Wall topo, Sector 3.
Above Right: Nick McKinnon on Damage Done (24)
Photo Neil Monteith.
10) Liberator 25m 19
Take the RH aręte of the small buttress 5m L of Lexicon. Up steeply to
the ledge and then up more steeply following the thin black streak
directly above. FFA Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie 6th November 1995
11) Shades of Black 25m 16
The first route done on the cliff. Steep climbing on outrageous holds.
Starts 7m L of L at a very small section of "brain" like rock at RH end of
small white cave. Straight up to LH side of buttress. Up flake on L then
up and R to top of buttress. Straight up wall above. FFA Campbell Mercer,
Peter Watling, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn 4th November 1995
12) Damage Done 35m 24 *
Start up Shades of Black and climb it to the bird shit stained ledge
at about 20m height. Hand traverse left here and head up pocketed wall
past a FH to under roof. Over this past another FH to finish. Amazing
exposure and unlikely moves. FFA Neil Monteith & Tom Briggs (UK) 5th
Above Left: Lower Centurion Wall topo, Sector 2.
Above Right: Nick McKinnon on the FFA of Left Hand Black (23).
13) Afterworld 20m 23 *
Starts up left side of cave about 30m left of DD. An easier variant
finish to Left Hand Black. Climb LHB to third FH then traverse right past
another FH to break in roof. Over this on jugs (FH), then up orange corner
and final steep wall to rap anchor. Wires and medium cams protect the
upper half. The direct start has been attempted on top-rope. FFA Neil
Monteith & Aaron Jones March 2000
14) Left Hand Black 18m 23 ***
Named after black pattern on rock. The route climbs the left aręte of
cave then continues up face above. Boulder start to jugs and sling
placement. Up arete (FH) to dinner plate jug (FH). Hard roof moves right
lead to a good jug. A long move to thin holds gets you positioned on the
fantastic orange face. Up this past FH and wires to roof. Over this (FH on
lip) to crux pocket pulls to gain last FH. Finish up thin wall to chain.
FFA Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith 7th November 1998.
15) Centrifugal Force 18m 24 **
The beautiful black streaked wall left of LHB. Start as for LHB to
first bolt then traverse left to jugs. From the break continue up past a
further three bolts and assorted wires. Last bolt was placed after first
ascent. Rap from chains above LHB. FFA Neil Monteith & Adam Demmertt 21st
A good limited bouldering wall exists
between Left Hand Black and Sandpit. The obvious problems were established
by Tom Briggs, Neil Monteith and Gareth Llewellin on 5th December 1998.
Addiitional V6 problem up ‘penis’ feature was added by Adam Demmert on 3rd
16) Sandpit 18m 20
The obvious loose flake crack left of CF. A single bolt offers the
only really good protection on this wall. Rap off chains. Recommended only
as a toprope. FFA Neil Monteith & Thomas Wimmer February 1999
17) Ton Steine Scherben 25m 24
Climbs the lip of the cave left of Sandpit
using a big undercling then finishes up the headwall above. 5 bolts and
some wires. Rap off chain. FFA Thomas Wimmer & Neil Monteith February 1999
18) Winged Corpse 15m 26 **
Wild overhung climbing through cave left of TSS. Stickclip FH then
funkness leads up flakes and pockets to double rings. Bouldery from start
to finish. Four bolts in all. FFA Neil Monteith & Cameron Fairburn 22nd
Right: Neil Monteith on the FFA
of Winged Corpse (26).
30m left of Winged Corpse is the juggy
grade 2 access route to the top of the cliff. A short fixed rope is in
place. Leftwards from here is an assortment of average quality easy
routes. There is potential for more if you are into that sort of thing.
19) Massacres and Maniacs 18m 15
About 40m left of fixed rope in scoop. Up scoop to ledge.Traverse L 3m
up crack to roof. Out right and up wall. FFA Campbell Mercer & Peter
Watling 6th November 1995
20) HCP 14m 12
A Hyper-classic Choss Pile? Up black wall left of MM and then V groove
above. FFA Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer 6th November1995
21) Lunchbox Legend 14m 18
Start 10m left of HCP. Straight up crack and then follow through
steepening above. Hard bouldery start and disconcerting finish. FFA
Campbell Mercer & Mike Mulcairn 6th November 1995
22) AA 24m 11
Start 25m R of the LH end of the cliff just to the right of the first
large orange overhang. Start at the LH end of the scoop. Up diagonally
Right through the scoop and across black wall to RH prow. Up. FFA Peter
Watling & Mike Mulcairn 6th November 1995
UPPER CENTURION WALL
These are all choss routes and are not recommended.
In the upper wall there is a large cave towards the RH end. To the R of
this is a thin buttress flanked on its RH side by a smooth wall. Between
the thin buttress and the smooth wall is a wide crack. This is Centurion.
23) Centurion 40m 9
Gain the ledge on the R then move back left to the wide crack. Up the wide
crack and then the buttress above on good holds. FFA Campbell Mercer &
Peter Watling 4th November 1995
24) BB 30m 10
Where Centurion finishes is a wide open ledge. 20m to the R of and
slightly up from the top of Centurion is a strong diagonal line formed by
the junction of a wall and a slab. (30m to the R of this route is the huge
arch system which can be clearly seen from the road). FFA Allan Hope &
Mike Mulcairn 4th November 1995
25) Desert Crack 20m A2
On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging
finger crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the
top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off sling. FA Neil Monteith (solo)
26th November 2000
Centurion Walls - Neil Monteiths web site, for more pics and latest
updates on Centurion Walls.
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