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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
Author
First Rope Advice
climbingjac
6-Jan-2011
11:33:25 AM
A poll would be useful - I think the reasons why people use different lengths can be valuable info as well...

..::- Chris -::..
6-Jan-2011
11:55:02 AM
Around 8m of Cord here.... and I rarely find myself with spare....

but I am a strict 3 point belay person where as I know others are happy with 2 as long as they are good. I was trained to use 3 points always, I've never had a single point fail in 15 years of climbing but I still like the fact there are backups and in general the force I’m exerting each piece of my gear is reduced etc

For me 8m works because I can fold the cord into 4 and full arms (wingspan) stretch then double that over and tie knot and it's not too bulky to carry....

There are still occasions when I use the rope to setup or a combo of both but I find 9 times out of 10 an 8 meter does me well.

I guess the way equalize my belay means that assuming all pieces are the same distance from the belay point I will have 6 lines (2 to each piece of gear)

10 Meter Cord
3 Piece (~1.6m from each piece)
2 Piece (~2.5m from each piece)

8 Meter Cord
3 piece setup (~1.3m from each piece)
2 piece setup (~2m from each piece)

4 Meter Cord
3 Piece (~.66m from each piece)
2 Piece (~1m from each piece)

My .04c worth
Chris : )
climbingjac
6-Jan-2011
12:00:14 PM
good post Chris, nice and clear imo.
widewetandslippery
6-Jan-2011
12:15:03 PM
Jesus you lot make life hard for people. By a fat rope mate. Learn to tie a fig 8 and clove hitch and have fun going rock climbing with your brand spanking new rope.

And learn not to use the word "cordolette" you sound like someone who enjoys those posey Berhualt vds from the 80s or a wnnabe wogboy. Its a big f---ing sling. It can be good and useful if you've got it down pat otherwise practise its use before inflicting it on anyone else.

climbertron
6-Jan-2011
12:56:45 PM
Yeah I've got a cordelette and know how to use it properly. Doesn't everyone call it a cordelette?
hargs
6-Jan-2011
1:05:01 PM
On 6/01/2011 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>Around 8m of Cord here.... and I rarely find myself with spare....

Same here, and I often think 10m would be better on Blueys trad routes.

You want to keep those angles small between pieces of your anchor. Shorter cor... , er, b.f.sling, means bigger angles at the pow..., er, clip-in point and bigger loads on each piece. Having said that, wide's got a point: keep it simple.
climbingjac
6-Jan-2011
2:43:04 PM
On 6/01/2011 climbertron wrote:
>Yeah I've got a cordelette and know how to use it properly. Doesn't everyone
>call it a cordelette?

Yep, it's not uncommon terminology. For the benefit of the OP, a cordolette is like a thin rope - so cylindrical. A "big sling" would be a long flat piece of tape.

ajfclark
6-Jan-2011
2:55:09 PM
And equalette is the same kind of cord and a cordelette but tied and applied slightly differently...

climbertron
6-Jan-2011
2:57:39 PM
Maybe I just need practice, but equalettes for more than two pieces of gear seem really fiddly to get right...... (unless you pre-equalise it down to two points)

Eduardo Slabofvic
6-Jan-2011
3:00:00 PM
I like how it is generally mis-pronounced, as in "Kord-oh-lay", where as the correct pronunciation would be "Kord-et", as in French for small rope.

ajfclark
6-Jan-2011
3:28:01 PM
Isn't a webolette a specific product that has an eye at each end rather than a big sling? Metolious calls it the Equaliser.

It's just a long snake sling, isn't it?
climbingjac
6-Jan-2011
3:29:29 PM
To get a visual on some of these things we're talking about, and how you'd use a cordolette or similar to connect anchors, take a look at the pretty pics here:

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Cordelette.htm

ajfclark
6-Jan-2011
3:36:09 PM
I was waiting for the cordelette doesn't actually equalise anything argument...

climbertron
6-Jan-2011
3:44:05 PM
On 6/01/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>I was waiting for the cordelette doesn't actually equalise anything argument...

I does equalise, it just gets worse the larger the distance difference between pieces of gear

ajfclark
6-Jan-2011
3:49:00 PM
Have you read John Long's analysis of cordelette's with placements that are offset vertically? His conclusion is that they pretty well don't equalise with placements with different length arms due to the differing amounts on stretch in the different lengths of the arms. They did a bunch of drop testing and so on as well. Interesting stuff.

climbertron
6-Jan-2011
3:50:38 PM
On 6/01/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>Have you read John Long's analysis of cordelette's with placements that
>are offset vertically? His conclusion is that they pretty well don't equalise
>with placements with different length arms due to the differing amounts
>on stretch in the different lengths of the arms. They did a bunch of drop
>testing and so on as well. Interesting stuff.

Exactly what I was saying

ajfclark
6-Jan-2011
3:53:08 PM
On 6/01/2011 climbertron wrote:
>I does equalise, it just gets worse the larger the distance difference between pieces of gear

This read to me as you were saying the further apart the pieces are, not the differing lengths of the arms of the setup.

climbertron
6-Jan-2011
3:56:22 PM
On 6/01/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>On 6/01/2011 climbertron wrote:
>>I does equalise, it just gets worse the larger the distance difference
>between pieces of gear
>
>This read to me as you were saying the further apart the pieces are, not
>the differing lengths of the arms of the setup.

I admit I worded that carelessly

wallwombat
6-Jan-2011
4:47:34 PM
I have cordelettes but never use them. I much prefer using the rope, when setting up belays. I always have.

I hate carrying excess gear and if I'm climbing on a 60m+, cordelettes are excess gear to me.

I also don't own an EPIRB or wear a helmet.

I definitely don't carry a PAS.




ambyeok
6-Jan-2011
5:21:17 PM
On 6/01/2011 davidn wrote:
>... but I've seen people use those silly monstrous 4m slings as a webolette.
>Cripes, but who'd be silly enough to have one of them!

As I already said, me. Cheers for your condesention.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
There are 42 messages in this topic.

 

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