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Speigals Overhang [North Jawbones, Cathedral Range


IdratherbeclimbingM9

27-May-2011
9:32:21 PM

On 26/05/2011 singersmith wrote:
>gfdonc wrote;
>>Does anyone have info on the pin on Travellers? I recall it being kinda
>>important but it would be 30 years old at least, could it be pulled and
>>replaced with a bolt?
>>
>
>What's wrong with replacing it with another pin?

If it has a pin then there is a crack right?
+
>30 years old at least
=
~> I would suggest that more modern trad gear could well meet the need...

Then again, the 'modern retro-attitude' often leaves a bit to be desired, so yeah, singersmith is right; ... like for like, would be the way to go in that case!
☺

gfdonc

30-May-2011
10:19:01 AM

Didn't get to look at it. I recall the pin was always crappy anyway, downward-pointing in a flake.

Abseil descent created and some rebolting on Xanthene. Report to follow.

Fish Boy

30-May-2011
11:42:22 AM

The rock dust is visable from the car park...the first bolt next to the arrow isnt really needed from what i could tell. The pin was solid or small wires work in the area. Is the protocol to remove redundant gear or just leave it to rust next to the new stuff?

gfdonc

30-May-2011
3:11:04 PM

On 30/05/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>The rock dust is visable from the car park...
Yep, noticed that yesterday when we drove up. Only until it rains though ..

the first bolt next to the
>arrow isnt really needed from what i could tell. The pin was solid or small
>wires work in the area.
Not sure what 'arrow' you're referring to. I assume you're referring to the Xanthene belay. I've done the route at least 4 times and I have always thought the belay was dodgy. The pin has appeared and disappeared over the years, and the wires you mention are high above the belay and I'm not sure the flake they'd be placed behind is still solid. Hence a bolt to back up the pin.

Is the protocol to remove redundant gear or just
>leave it to rust next to the new stuff?
Good question. I usually chop the old carrots but left the Xanthene bolt in place as a relic of what undersized carrots look like. Or maybe I was just wanting to keep moving on a cold autumn afternoon. If I hear objections I'm listening ...

dalai

30-May-2011
3:52:10 PM

Are the pitch one bolts on Xanthene and those on Traverse of the Gods still looking okay?

gfdonc

30-May-2011
4:41:13 PM

Yes, I thought they were fine. The Traverse has got recent stainless (no FHs). The two bolts on p1 of Xanthene looked OK as well, although somehow left most of my brackets in the pack.

I was very keen to replace the rusty carrot on Greg's Direct but when I got there it was thicker than I remembered and I also had people waiting at the top. Just as well, too, as my battery ran out after only 5 1/2 holes - to appease Makitapincha I had to rap down off a single anchor then jumar back up with the spare battery to finish the last 1/2 a hole for the second rap anchor.

I'll post a topo and description later tonight, but for the record we established a rap at the left edge of the right buttress, near Travellers Slab. Short scramble down then 55m rap gets you to a stance below God's ledge, then 56m to the ground. There are some options for shorter ropes (I think you could get down with 2x50m and some mucking about) that I'll post.

dalai

30-May-2011
4:54:27 PM

On 30/05/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>Yes, I thought they were fine. The Traverse has got recent stainless (no
>FHs).

How recent? These where replaced back ~ 14 years or so ago, have these been replaced again since?

gfdonc

30-May-2011
10:29:14 PM

New rap route details at:
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=17646&Replies=0&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

michaelc54

19-Oct-2011
4:16:13 PM

Was up there last weekend, take some secateurs next time you go

The walk down the gully is OK but the brush is now so thick at the bottom it needs cutting back fairly hard!

The main problem is that you can't see the ground and when you fall over the prickles are a bugger


ado_m

19-Oct-2011
4:41:11 PM

Bones and I were there a few weeks ago, mostly to get burgers at the buxton roadhouse, but we did stumble up a route or two at north jawbones. We used those rap stations - thanks to whoever put them in. We had gale force winds, and rapping down was a laugh.... would have been better to walk, prickles or no prickles.


Phil Laukens

21-Oct-2011
11:27:12 AM

On 30/05/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>New rap route details at:
>http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=17646&
>eplies=0&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost
>

We did this climb a month ago but didn't know about the rap stations, we got pretty scratched up and a few prickles embedded in our hands. How does one donate to the cost of the rings?

gfdonc

21-Oct-2011
2:17:26 PM

On 21/10/2011 Phil Laukens wrote:
>we got pretty scratched up and a few prickles embedded in our hands. How
>does one donate to the cost of the rings?

Easy. Send me some money!
Seriously - I would appreciate contributions no matter how small. Donations will go back into anchor replacement. Email me for banking details.
- Steve


StuckNut

21-Oct-2011
2:53:11 PM

We also had a lot of fun(NOT) rapping off in gale force winds with 2 x 60m ropes. I highly recommend not throwing the ropes if its windy and instead have the first person coil and pay them out as they descend to avoid the clusterf*ck!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21-Oct-2011
5:59:28 PM

On 21/10/2011 StuckNut wrote:
>We also had a lot of fun(NOT) rapping off in gale force winds with 2 x
>60m ropes. I highly recommend not throwing the ropes if its windy and instead
>have the first person coil and pay them out as they descend to avoid the
>clusterf*ck!

Sounds to me like you had a good trad adventure!
Heh, heh, heh.

There are 54 messages in this topic.