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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Cathedral Range (General) (General) [ Cathedral Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
New rap route established North Jawbones Monday, 30 May 2011 At 10:22:30 PM gfdonc
Message
A new abseil descent has been added at North Jawbones.
The route follows the left edge of the right (Spiegal's Xanthene etc) buttress as marked:



The rappells are approx 55 and 56m so the ground can be reached in two raps with 2x60m ropes (see notes below for options with shorter ropes). First rap is two SS Petzl rings located a small scramble down from near the top of Travellers Slab. Head down and slightly left to reach the ledges, go over these and down the face about 8m further to two more rings at a small but comfortable stance.
From here, the second rap heads slightly right down the face (near Route Two) to the bottom.

Options: If you have 1x60m and 1x50m ropes, you might be able to reach the midstation by equalising the ropes as best you can. Otherwise, stop on a small stance on the face and downclimb the easy but exposed face (or belay to be safer). Don't forget to tie stopper knots in the ends of your ropes.
You can reach easy-angled slabs at the base with this rope combination and scramble down the last 2-3m of low-angle slabs.

If you only have 2x50m ropes you might still consider using the rap descent. Rap down to the ledges then belay or scramble down to the rings. For the second rap, head straight down the face over roofs (watch for sharp edges) to end up reaching a stance higher up in the gully, then bash down the last few metres.

Caveat: the short-rope options have not been tested. Abseiling can lead to injury or death, take suitable precautions.

Approximate cost of works $68, donations gratefully accepted.

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