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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Cathedral Range (General) (General) [ Cathedral Guide | Images ] 

Author
Cathedral Range goss

Byron
8-Nov-2014
6:35:40 PM
Any recommendations/goss for Cathedral Range? Don't see it mentioned much, and as a int./beginner climber the grades seem kind and the slab experience would be good.. Also cruisey multi pitch outings look great.. Is it too hot in summer? How would you spend 2-3 days on grades 10-16ish?

pmonks
Online Now
9-Nov-2014
6:58:23 AM
On 8/11/2014 bk wrote:
>Any recommendations/goss for Cathedral Range? Don't see it mentioned much,
>and as a int./beginner climber the grades seem kind and the slab experience
>would be good.. Also cruisey multi pitch outings look great.. Is it too
>hot in summer? How would you spend 2-3 days on grades 10-16ish?

Never been there, but from what I've heard on here you could easily spend 2-3 days picking prickles out of yourself & your gear.
peteclimbs
9-Nov-2014
7:48:22 AM
Only been there the once. We climbed Spiegels Overhang as one of my first trad leads last year. It was fun and a bit of an adventure. The climb itself is ok. As you'd expect for the grade it was very very cruisey climbing. The walk in isn't too bad - you're on the tourist track for much of it then a steepish goat track for the last bit. We rapped off rather than deal with the prickly walk off. The rap is fine (you need two ropes) as there are rings at halfway although with the low angle of the wall and a fair bit of vegetation on it the chances of ropes getting stuck is fairly high. Ours didn't, but it was on my mind.

Whilst the rock is low angle, from memory I wouldn't really describe the climbing as slabby. I recall lots and lots of features and more gear than you can shake a stick at.

More info in this post too http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=2291&Replies=17

ajfclark
9-Nov-2014
8:38:37 AM
I've only done a couple of routes on the North Jawbone, maybe a linkup of Jerry Pot/Junglescope and Spiegals Overhang? It is hot in summer but manageable if you get there early, move quick and get off before it gets too hot.

Byron
9-Nov-2014
10:48:08 AM
Awesome, thanks for the info and links to previous threads. Definitely seems worth a weekend trip just to mix up the scenery, and get into the multi pitch rhythm (aka the vertical meander).. we have the guide which points to some worthwhile outings, so shouldn't get too lost, maybe just prickled..

Any fresh reports of approach/descent appreciated (no dbl ropes sadly) but seems pretty well documented.
Cheers!
stuart h
9-Nov-2014
12:28:35 PM
The North Jawbones in particular is a really nice crag in a lovely setting, though not for really hot days. The classic routes were all well described in the old Melbourne's best from Rock. I assume the new Melbourne Selected is even more detailed. The truth is you can climb pretty much anywhere on that rock.

If I had 2-3 days I would not spend it in the Cathedrals. I would drive west. Even more so if I was looking to consolidate multipitch gear climbing at grades 10-16. The Cathedrals a great for a long day trip from Melbourne and will entertainingly fill more than a few of them over the years.

I haven't been back to the Cathedrals for several years but the last time I did the ridge walk the prickles were past the point of pleasantness. If you are in Melbourne you can have one of my old ropes to do the abseils.

Superstu
9-Nov-2014
12:35:43 PM
Fond memories of climbing on the jawbones (both north and south). Much underrated in my humble opinion. Bumbly heaven, not too steep, fun climbing.

Does anybody ever go out to Bissets Pinnacles still? Is Spiral Architect really a three star 18? It could possibly be the last 3 star 18 in Victoria I haven't done, and this needs to be fixed.

JamesMc
9-Nov-2014
10:17:50 PM
North Jawbone is excellent moderate slab climbing. Some routes are quite run-out.

The old descent track has grown over and would be really horrible to walk down unless you wear motorcycle leathers. You could walk off the back via the tourist trade but this will get you back to the access track, not the base of the diff. Better to find a friend with a second 60m rope for the abseils.


And SuperStu, no they don't and no it isn't. forget it.

Byron
10-Nov-2014
9:46:58 AM
Thanks everyone, will probably suss out some dbl ropes when we get around to it. Seems worth a couple days of fun, we aim West for bigger missions, but always nice to explore, especially when the 4hr drive feels too far.
Cheers!



Pat
10-Nov-2014
9:51:17 AM
South jawbone now has a good range of mid teen grade climbs - bit of an unsung hero at the grades you are looking at. Good details for both north and south in the recent selected guide.

D.Lodge
12-Nov-2014
5:44:56 PM
Went up last Tuesday to suss out some guiding possibilities and also did a couple of routes, a 10 and a 13. It was a great fun afternoon out on the sugarloaf.

shortman
12-Nov-2014
6:00:54 PM
On 12/11/2014 D.Lodge wrote:
>Went up last Tuesday to suss out some guiding possibilities and also did
>a couple of routes, a 10 and a 13. It was a great fun afternoon out on
>the sugarloaf.

Baghdad and Cherry Flake?


Pat
13-Nov-2014
6:51:23 AM
On 12/11/2014 D.Lodge wrote:
>Went up last Tuesday to suss out some guiding possibilities and also did
>a couple of routes, a 10 and a 13. It was a great fun afternoon out on
>the sugarloaf.

Sugarloaf isn't really cruise mid teen-multi pitching though is it? Nice area, but not what the OP is looking for?

Byron
13-Nov-2014
9:59:55 AM
Thanks D.Lodge, Sugarloaf definitely seems worth a look for some shorter stuff. Did you stay at Cooks Mill campsite?
Will probably start at Jawbone like you suggest Pat, and scope out Sugarloaf for another mission sometime.
Sturge
18-Nov-2014
10:49:17 AM
Went out to North Jawbone yesterday.
The access track is pretty overgrown with prickles in places. It was actually a fairly unpleasant uphill slog given that some threatening looking weather had us bailing before getting too much meaningful climbing in.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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