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Crag & Route Beta

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cathedral - multi pitch advice
5:34:41 PM
Hey all,

Will be doing my first multi pitch this weekend. Was planning on doing it at Cathedral Ranges. As I only have one day and it is out my way, thought it would be a good option. Have done a bit of research but would love a bit of feedback re: advice, suggestions on suitable routes eg. Sugarloaf, North or South Jawbone?

Have mainly climbed indoor and a few times at Werribee - highest grade there 14. Will be seconding. My climbing partner, who will be leading, has never been to Cathedral either.

Much appreciated.


5:43:26 PM
I reckon, hands down, the best introductory multipitch route in the Melbourne area is Spiegals Overhang at North Jawbones.


  • it follows a clear line and isn't easy to get lost on
  • great gear all the way up
  • good belay ledges, with awesome views
  • great clean rock
  • easy enough that you can concentrate on learning the basics of multipitch rope work but still hard enough to be interesting

    Get there early coz there are often parties on it. You'll need something to wear on your feet on the walk off. It will be cold up there this time of year so dress appropriately.

  • Doc
    5:44:32 PM
    My first multi pitch was Speigels overhang on Nth Jawbone about ten years ago. I went back and did it again this Monday. It is still a great route althought there appears to be a lot more folliage on it then there used to be. It is still a great day out and the approach has been lessened slightly by a new track.I can highly recommend it as there is heaps of bomber gear. Prepare for a desent walk in.
    6:31:39 PM
    Sugarloaf has some nice routes but the pro is a bit more sparse than Nth Jawbones. What day are you heading out there?

    7:27:04 PM
    Spiegels Overhang is a fantastic climb but....

    Contrary to previous posts, it's not well protected all the way. The first pitch is very poorly protected. It's very easy (about grade 5 I think) but if you fall you could land on the ground.

    I once saw someone doing his first ever lead on this pitch and he was not a happy camper.

    So long as you're happy soloing grade 5, Spiegels is totally recommended. One of the best long easy routes in Australia.

    James Mc
    9:08:47 AM

    JUNGLESCOPE........(I don't know what you other guys were thinking)
    9:40:45 AM
    Guys, this is great. Spiegal's Overhang, Junglescope and also Cherry's Flake were the main ones that were catching my eye in my research. Interesting to hear peoples differing opinions and I'm sure they all have their pros and cons for someone with my experience (or lack of). Good belay ledges re Spiegals - great info. And important for me I think being my first multi pitch. Why Junglescope NEVERCLIMBED32?

    Probably heading out there Sunday if weather is kind. Am definately looking forward to it!

    Hmm...decisions, decisions
    11:35:56 AM
    Yep, Speigals is certainly a good recommendation.

    If it's busy you can also head up Route Two which is a juggy start to a big ledge - easy fun climbing on good holds, but note you can't do it in one pitch on a 50m rope though, I've tried, and the best belay spots arrive sooner rather than later.

    From the big ledge you can then lead a 12 straight up which I can't remember the name of, or go across Traverse of the Gods with two bolts covering the tricky bit, then join Speigals for the last pitch (or head up Greg's Direct (14)). The top section of this slab is great.

    Another route which doesn't get nearly as much traffic but deserves it IMHO is Divect (9) on the middle slab, 4 or 5 pitches. A bit scrubby towards the end.

    It will be bloody cold up there once the sun goes off the slabs in the afternoon. Take clothing, food and a head torch.
    11:59:18 AM
    Can anyone explain the line of bolts going up what appears to be Whiteline Fever at around Traverse of the Gods level?

    I thought this "was" a fairly natural route (and runout) but the spacing of the bolts looks to be fairly comfortable.
    1:15:58 PM
    On 8/06/2006 gfdonc wrote:

    >It will be bloody cold up there once the sun goes off the slabs in the
    >afternoon. Take clothing, food and a head torch.
    This is even better advice than that regarding routes. Nice one gfdonc.

    Junglescope, if i remember correctly offers plenty of good pro on the first pitch. Make sure you head towards the left end of the belay ledge. Pitch two is fairly runout which makes the overlaps kind of exciting.
    I loved it.

    3:29:34 PM
    On 8/06/2006 Rob668 wrote:
    >Can anyone explain the line of bolts going up what appears to be Whiteline
    >Fever at around Traverse of the Gods level?

    It is an 18 - that may or may not retro bolt Whiteline Fever (no-one ever confirmed this suspicion). It was
    put up a few years ago. It is a well protected sport route.

    There was quite a discusison about this route on the re-bolting forums...

    1:30:34 AM
    Try Northern Ramble, at the far right edge of the Spiegal's buttress. You're spoilt for choice with holds all the way up and the feeling of exposure is definiitely there. At grade 6 it's a nice easy intro to the Cathedrals sandstone.

    2:16:52 PM
    Had a look at that on Monday. I did it a long time ago. a nice route but again there seems to be a fair bit more bush bashing needed on the ascent then there used to be.
    3:13:00 PM
    Thanks guys, your advice and recommendations have been taken on board and I have packed the thermals. Though I suspect my fingers will be crying out for mercy.
    1:37:52 PM
    How'd it go?
    Trip report here would be great.
    11:44:36 PM
    NEVERCLIMBED32......It went brilliantly! Loved every minute of it. And just leaves me wanting more. Ended up doing Spiegals Overhang. I do intend to do a Trip Report, next week or so.Have just been a bit busy and would like to do a half decent job. Do bear in mind that this will be my first Trip Report and not currently up to grade in the climbing vernacular. will be a story of laughter and tears(actually, none of those, the tears that is), food and spilt coffee and a close encounter with some very innocent appearing leaf litter!
    And of course...the rock.

    And tmarsh..those views were spectacular...brought a rush to my heart and a smile to my face!

    Once again all, thanks for the advice
    sophisticated rednec
    7:52:28 PM
    I suggest Junglescope on North Jawbones, graded 13. It was my first multi pitch and a great adventure at that. It is safe, so you can do it with confidence. Maybe you should consider leading one of the pitches, the experience will be rewarding. Allow plenty of time for this 144 metre climb.
    10:25:28 PM
    It's done. But I thought I'd be clever and put it in Trip Reports. I occasionally have those moments.

    There are 18 messages in this topic.


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