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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Medusa
WM
25/08/2006
11:19:22 AM
It's a shame that this awesome line appears to see absolutely zero action, either as the short 25 version or the whole shebang.

Has the second pitch been sent? Does it go all the way to the top of the wall or stop at the (single bolt?) chain just below the bushy break, about 10m below the top?

Are the 2 bolts and triple bolt anchor for the 25 first pitch in ok condition? I notice that Jonesy said here that the 2nd pitch needs rebolting... Is the 'crap' rock he refers to only up on the headwall above the break? Surely the orange groove up to the bushes is good rock?!

(Steve asked this before but no info was forthcoming.)
jonesy
25/08/2006
11:56:14 AM
1st pitch excellent and well worth climbing - quite exciting. Bolts old but ok.

2nd pitch finishes at ledge - try it and see what I mean about the crappy rock - the odd concerning hold with a big crack behind it and the broken hold on the left of the runnel by the 2nd last bolt.

nmonteith
25/08/2006
12:05:21 PM
On 25/08/2006 jonesy wrote:
>2nd pitch finishes at ledge

By 'ledge' do you mean the top of the cliff - or the horizontal break about 10m below the top?
jonesy
25/08/2006
12:06:24 PM
horizontal 10m from top. you could finish up any one of the 2/3 bolt wonders or just head up the 7th pillar corner.

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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