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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Topic Date User
Taipan Super Topo.... Monday, 21 November 2005 At 5:11:09 PM Jonesy
Message
Simey - you're thinking of the 2nd pitch to medusa. I tried it a few times with Woody belaying. The hardest bit at the top past the last bolt can be avoided by scuttling right along a big break then up. It's like cardigan st but on crapper rock. The offending glue was nowhere to be seen, just a friable white toothy scar that you had to crimp on the left of the runnel (before the actual crux). I didn't want to go thru the hassle of redpointing it as it seemed like you'd just break a piece of it off just when you're about to do it. Needed rebolting too - actually now that we're on that subject, the whole wall should be rebolted (especially Father O)

Also Neil - don't forget the Groovy Extension. One of the Cossey's will probably bag it at some stage. Groovy then 2 V8/9's and a ?V10 with big run outs.

Dave - sssh on the left runnel.... I looked at that and went up to the big red jug when I was down jumping FB one arvo. It looks incredible. My only question was whether it had an independent start or would you turn the FB lip then break left?

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