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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
Author
Havachatwithsimey

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/09/2005
11:32:06 AM
On 22/09/2005 simey wrote:
>Well I'm completely lost by all that.

Was just musing and updating with reference to the 1st line in this particular thread, ie ...
>Havachatwithsimey is a repository of Simey's quality posts and quotes. >It will be updated on a regular basis.

I thought your query re jonesing was relevant, as I too had no idea ...
Subsequently I got a laugh out of your banter/humour, so threw 'it' to here for more carry-on.

Yours jonesingly
M8

> it's bloody hard trying to keep up
Yeah; ... As an aid climber I can vouch we have been saying that about free climbers for years!!
:)

alrob
24/09/2005
2:12:56 AM
6 degrees of simin nmentz:

simeon mentz
simon carter
carter4 from 'the oc'
nOCturnal
night
lancelot, knight of the t=round table

Super Saiyan
24/09/2005
12:27:38 PM
alrob
24/09/2005
2:12:56 AM

that got anything to do with your spelling al?? :P

alrob
24/09/2005
1:58:01 PM
ooohh, yeah it could possibly! :D

M10iswhereitsat.
4/08/2007
2:58:28 PM

bomber pro
15/07/2007
8:42:22 PM

On 15/07/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>> Epic stuff ...
>>
>>even getting to the top is tough, and a great achievment in itself...
>>
>>... just a little bit more beta ... plz ...

>So... both sections are graded 25, expect it to be solid at the grade, not a soft touch >19 arete with one
>tough move, can't tell you about Deep Play, looks like crimpy face climbing, prolly >sustained and
>endurance based with sequential sections, the second pitch I know well, it is >balancey, lots of slaping
>up whilst laying away on the slaping hand with feet smeared as close to the arete as >possible to
>maintain the balance, and some small holds thrown in to keep you thinking.
>the fun really starts at about 1/4 hight and gets full on at 1/2 hight then backs off at >about 4/5 hight,
>with the 1/5 top trad section being quite relaxing after the arete fun.
>the original first pitch is just full on from the get go till you reach the crack, go for >Deep Play! much
>cleaner and the bonus is that it can be done with just two of you if necesary.
>The old days a third person would throw you the trailing rope once you got to the half >way ledge (the
>first pitch used to wind three quarters of the way around the tote and would snag the >ropes making it
>impossible to trail it up for the tirolene off.
>Maybe the best beta I can give you is put the chalk bag/shoes in a plastic zip lock >untill you are safely
>away from the swell/spray zone, and bellay from a bag/daypack when you start the >climb to keep
>ropes dry!
>The most memorable sensation for me was feeling the tote shudder every single time >a wave hit, this
>gets more pronounced as you get higher on the climb!......Go for it, It's one of the >most iconic climbs
>in OZ, and like nothing I have ever climbed anywhere else in the world!


-----------------------------------------

OK ,,, thx for that , Bomber !!! ...well I put it all thru my psycho-somatic systems for a few weeks, and have decided the best way for ME to climb , especially the 2nd pitch , is to do a mega red-point ...

... climb with 70+ metre rope and LOTSA chalk ...

... climb to 1st bolt... lower off ... regardless of how fresh/pumped I am ... then continue up in this manner... maybe clip 2 bolts if I start to cruise a bit of ' soft touch 19 ' :P

... this way I can dial the route , and have a bit/lots of fun ... vsv a desperate , harrowing epic ...


Dear Simey , any idea what grade Steve thought the top block was ?

... I bet no-one has REALLY stood on top... wide-eyed bear-hug the last bit, maybe ... but STOOD ??




M10iswhereitsat.
5/08/2007
9:25:24 PM


STREWTH

M10iswhereitsat.
5/08/2007
9:31:51 PM
Anyone climbed it laterly ? ... have more holds broken off ?? ... are the ' locals ' pissweak ???


>The free route is 25 and after talking to the locals they told me it's closer to 26/27...

(Tue Feb 6 10:13:23 IST 2001)

From: Mike Clifford
Email: myklcliff@yahoo.com
Subject: Finbarr Desmond
Comment:
I know alot of ye got this but for those who didn't:

Hi everyone,
Just getting ready to leave Tasmania.I arrived here on
the 4th Jan and will be leaving tomorrow for New
Zeland.I've had a great month down here.I based myself
in Hobart as i was staying with a friend that i met in
Arapiles.Tim has a load of interesting toys and we
spent a lot of time playing with them.I didn't get any
free climbing worth talking about done,as my foot is
still too sore for rock shoes.We did everything else,
including caving,sea kayaking,wind surfing(kinda,the
sinker was a bit heavy in the conditions),grass sking,
aid climbing,mountain biking,rafting,snorkling,cliff
jumping(opera singing),gliding,bush bashing and a few
others i can't think of at the moment.
I didn't achieve my one objective for Tasmania-not for
the want of trying.The Totem Pole will have to wait
for another trip.The free route is 25 and after
talking to the locals they told me it's closer to
26/27
,out of my league so an aid climbing trip was
planned.Trip one was a complete disaster.I broke the
cheat stick(needed to haul from the end of ab rope
across gap to mainland)while abbing in.As it turned
out
,it wasn't long enough anyway.I did my knee in while
swinging on the end of the ab rope in a hopeless
attempt to hook a rusty carrot(bolt with no hanger)and

bashed into a wall.Even if i got across,there was no
way that a safe belay for four people could be set up
in this position.Time to go.Trip two went a little
better,but not by much.Only two of us this time so a
lot faster.The sea was just about low enough for me to

hop across some bolders and clip a bolt before been
trashed by a wave.I managed to lead the first short
pitch completely oblivious to the fact that the
weather had turned rotten and my partner was been
washed over by waves three meters above the deck.She
didn't complain as i was on tied off knife blades and
a
couple of hook moves.Sky hooks have a way of focusing
your attention!By the time she jugged up to the belay
it was getting really windy.Time to go again.Good call
as when i finally lowered onto the ab rope i was been
blown around like a rag doll at the end of 70m of rope
fully ladden down with an aid rack.That little part of
the Tasman sea has no respect for the weather
forecast!
We were going back out a third time but the weather
wouldn't cooperate.
Good excuse to come back.Not that you need one.There
is
so much to do down here and it's all easy to get to.
Tasmania doesn't have the extremes of distance and
weather so it's possible to get loads done.
Talk to you all from New Zeland.
Finbarr.

M10iswhereitsat.
5/08/2007
9:40:49 PM
http://www.mountainproject.com/images/27/83/105962783_large_9efd2b.jpg

M10iswhereitsat.
5/08/2007
9:42:15 PM
http://www.mountainproject.com/images/28/70/105962870_large_70a69d.jpg

http://www.mountainproject.com/images/28/83/105962883_large_dbcb1c.jpg

M10iswhereitsat.
5/08/2007
9:52:01 PM
http://www.bigredclimbing.com/t5.jpg

M10iswhereitsat.
5/08/2007
9:55:31 PM
http://www.planetfear.com/photo_slideshow.asp?pi_id=166&p_id=17

M10iswhereitsat.
6/08/2007
12:34:03 PM
BomberPro !!!! or any twin-head ' locals ' ... can someone clarify this 4 me plz ...

muki
6/08/2007
1:36:27 PM
As far as I can tell from reading the trip report, the only thing that got broken was the cheat stick used for
cliping the bolts from the swell zone, not any holds, the tote is a dolorite tower, the holds are all solid on
the free climbing sections of the tower, all accidents to date have occured when rapelling down the face
past what has only ever been aid climbed, and lots of loose blocks are found on these sections, and as
far as 26/27 goes, I personaly don't think that the climb is that hard! solid 25 at most.

M10iswhereitsat.
6/08/2007
5:38:46 PM
Thx bomba ... are there good (but probably small if any ) hand holds at each bolt , or are the hangers mostly a bit desperate to clip * imagines wild barn-door-lay-away, sweaty hands, fluctuating sea winds while trying to clip *... just how many hangers r there ? how many brackets needed for 2nd pitch ? ...will 70metre rope be enuf if I'm red-pointing all the way ?

If the swell/wind has snapped the Tote off at the big belay ledge , will the 1st pitch, free, still count as a free ascent of the Totem Pole ?? ... I would love to visit the cape during a MASSIVE southerly ground swell , an see the sucka throb !!! :D

You mentioned the Tote shudders with each wave ... I re-call the accompanying sound of that as I was swimming past it , enroute to the CandleStick , in the ' Epoch of Kim ' (1980s)


Thx in advance 4 answering each bit of (important to me) trivia, Bomba:-)



' Whateva floats ur tote '



muki
6/08/2007
6:25:12 PM
On 6/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>Thx bomba ... are there good (but probably small if any ) hand holds at
>each bolt

Some desperate clips on the original first pitch, I hav'nt done the new first pitch (yet)

> or are the hangers mostly a bit desperate to clip *

That pretty much sums up the first pitch, then you hit the sweet trad crack to the halfway ledge.

>imagines wild barn-door-lay-away, sweaty hands, fluctuating sea winds while trying to clip *

the arete is a balancy/cruxy windblown nightmare while the sea just pounds away at it! (good guess)

>... just how many hangers r there ? how many brackets needed for
>2nd pitch ? ...will 70metre rope be enuf if I'm red-pointing all the way?

All fixed hangers on the second pitch, that helps alot !!! and the tote is 70m all up so your rope might
just make it, but have you considered how you are going to get off afterwards? the tirolene is best!

>If the swell/wind has snapped the Tote off at the big belay ledge , will
>the 1st pitch, free, still count as a free ascent of the Totem Pole ??

It would'nt be the "total pole" then would it! so maybe just the free ascent of the "token pole!"

>... I would love to visit the cape during a MASSIVE southerly ground swell
>, an see the sucka throb !!! :D

Is'nt ground swell an affect of earth quake?

>You mentioned the Tote shudders with each wave ... I re-call the accompanying
>sound of that as I was swimming past it , enroute to the CandleStick ,
>in the ' Epoch of Kim ' (1980s)

the vibration while climbing is very distracting, especially when you stop to consider that it was not
aways a free standing pillar, but just what is left after everything else has fallen away so far!

>Thx in advance 4 answering each bit of (important to me) trivia, Bomba:-)

No probs, good luck, and PS don't rapp the tote!

> ' Whateva floats ur tote '



M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
7:55:53 AM
>Happy to give you beta on the Totem Pole.

>Climbed it in March 06.


Chalk' --- I'm sure I'm not the only one ... throw a few things into this thread or maybe a trip report ... that section of Chocky is in need of attn ...


OK ... one qu ... how far up before the rock is always NOT damp and slimey ?

M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
8:12:12 AM
On 6/08/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>On 6/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>>Thx bomba ... are there good (but probably small if any ) hand holds
>at
>>each bolt
>
>Some desperate clips on the original first pitch, I hav'nt done the new
>first pitch (yet)
-------------------------------------------------------
What about the size , positiveness of the holds , near the bolts , on the 2nd pitch ?
--------------------------------------------------------
>> or are the hangers mostly a bit desperate to clip *
>
>That pretty much sums up the first pitch, then you hit the sweet trad
>crack to the halfway ledge.
------------------------------------------------------------
Onsight reckons there's no pegs at the crack ... I've red a report that reports pegs , and saw a photo somewhere of a peg above Steve Monks while he's on 1st orig pitch .
-----------------------------------------------------------
>>imagines wild barn-door-lay-away, sweaty hands, fluctuating sea winds
> while trying to clip *
>
>the arete is a balancy/cruxy windblown nightmare while the sea just pounds
>away at it! (good guess)
---------------------------------------------
gulp...
-----------------------------------------------
>>... just how many hangers r there ? how many brackets needed for
>>2nd pitch ? ...will 70metre rope be enuf if I'm red-pointing all the
>way?
>
>All fixed hangers on the second pitch, that helps alot !!! and the tote
>is 70m all up so your rope might
>just make it,
---------------------------------------------
No, I mean red-point as in trad-seige ! If 2nd pitch is 50 metres , and I fall,lower of at 40metres then... I wanna get to the ledge , savvy ? ... I suspect all partys who have taken falls, have just climbed back on (g#y-point ascent)
--------------------------------------------
but have you considered how you are going to get off afterwards?
>the tirolene is best!
---------------------------------------------
Nah, I wanna rap it !!!

Hey there, baby !!!
The Tote is really cool !!!:D
I wanna go with Stutang...
But that dude thinks ima fool !!!:(

Stutgang --- ura tool ! :D

--------------------------------------------
>
>>If the swell/wind has snapped the Tote off at the big belay ledge , will
>>the 1st pitch, free, still count as a free ascent of the Totem Pole ??
>
>It would'nt be the "total pole" then would it! so maybe just the free
>ascent of the "token pole!"
----------------------------------------------
LOL !!! Classic , mate !!!
---------------------------------------------
>>... I would love to visit the cape during a MASSIVE southerly ground
>swell
>>, an see the sucka throb !!! :D
>
>Is'nt ground swell an affect of earth quake?
------------------------------------------
Errr, no. Check Goggle 4 difference between ground,wind and trouser swells:P
-----------------------------------------
>>You mentioned the Tote shudders with each wave ... I re-call the accompanying
>>sound of that as I was swimming past it , enroute to the CandleStick
>,
>>in the ' Epoch of Kim ' (1980s)
>
>the vibration while climbing is very distracting, especially when you
>stop to consider that it was not
>aways a free standing pillar, but just what is left after everything else
>has fallen away so far!
--------------------------------------------
Good geomorphilogical understanding u have , young fella !!! :-)
---------------------------------------------
>>Thx in advance 4 answering each bit of (important to me) trivia, Bomba:-)
>
>No probs, good luck, and PS don't rapp the tote!
>
>> ' Whateva floats ur tote '


Hmmmmmm




Chuck Norris
7/08/2007
8:30:13 AM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:

>
>Hey there, baby !!!
>The Tote is really cool !!!:D
>I wanna go with Stutang...
>But that dude thinks ima fool !!!:(
>
>Stutgang --- ura tool ! :D
>

nah - i'll do it with ya - on one condition...I want a tiny bit more (only a bit more) beta than you - I want
draws in place and fag tags on every hold with a little L or R underneath

M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
8:31:54 AM
Bomba wrote:

>the fun really starts at about 1/4 hight and gets full on at 1/2 hight then backs off at about 4/5

OK... this is very important ... what grade mostly , is the 1st 1/4 ? ... and wot grade is the ' cruisy ' trad stuff for the last 1/5 ?

What grade is the final block ...

Did ... you ... *ahem* ... REALLY stand on top ?... mate ... *ahem *



IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/08/2007
11:43:18 AM
On 7/08/2007 stugang wrote:

>nah - i'll do it with ya - on one condition...I want a tiny bit more (only
>a bit more) beta than you - I want draws in place and fag tags on every hold with a little L or R underneath

LOL
Yeah hex, whydonchajustgoanclimbit?, since you indicate you have been there before and it seems from the obsessive q's that you have just about murdered the mystery/adventure out of it by now ...
:)
In a useless attempt to mitigate the ensuing flaming I would also add that it is certainly a worthy 'project' and I wish you well with it.

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