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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Havachatwithsimey 5-Aug-2007 At 9:31:51 PM M10iswhereitsat.
Message
Anyone climbed it laterly ? ... have more holds broken off ?? ... are the ' locals ' pissweak ???


>The free route is 25 and after talking to the locals they told me it's closer to 26/27...

(Tue Feb 6 10:13:23 IST 2001)

From: Mike Clifford
Email: myklcliff@yahoo.com
Subject: Finbarr Desmond
Comment:
I know alot of ye got this but for those who didn't:

Hi everyone,
Just getting ready to leave Tasmania.I arrived here on
the 4th Jan and will be leaving tomorrow for New
Zeland.I've had a great month down here.I based myself
in Hobart as i was staying with a friend that i met in
Arapiles.Tim has a load of interesting toys and we
spent a lot of time playing with them.I didn't get any
free climbing worth talking about done,as my foot is
still too sore for rock shoes.We did everything else,
including caving,sea kayaking,wind surfing(kinda,the
sinker was a bit heavy in the conditions),grass sking,
aid climbing,mountain biking,rafting,snorkling,cliff
jumping(opera singing),gliding,bush bashing and a few
others i can't think of at the moment.
I didn't achieve my one objective for Tasmania-not for
the want of trying.The Totem Pole will have to wait
for another trip.The free route is 25 and after
talking to the locals they told me it's closer to
26/27
,out of my league so an aid climbing trip was
planned.Trip one was a complete disaster.I broke the
cheat stick(needed to haul from the end of ab rope
across gap to mainland)while abbing in.As it turned
out
,it wasn't long enough anyway.I did my knee in while
swinging on the end of the ab rope in a hopeless
attempt to hook a rusty carrot(bolt with no hanger)and

bashed into a wall.Even if i got across,there was no
way that a safe belay for four people could be set up
in this position.Time to go.Trip two went a little
better,but not by much.Only two of us this time so a
lot faster.The sea was just about low enough for me to

hop across some bolders and clip a bolt before been
trashed by a wave.I managed to lead the first short
pitch completely oblivious to the fact that the
weather had turned rotten and my partner was been
washed over by waves three meters above the deck.She
didn't complain as i was on tied off knife blades and
a
couple of hook moves.Sky hooks have a way of focusing
your attention!By the time she jugged up to the belay
it was getting really windy.Time to go again.Good call
as when i finally lowered onto the ab rope i was been
blown around like a rag doll at the end of 70m of rope
fully ladden down with an aid rack.That little part of
the Tasman sea has no respect for the weather
forecast!
We were going back out a third time but the weather
wouldn't cooperate.
Good excuse to come back.Not that you need one.There
is
so much to do down here and it's all easy to get to.
Tasmania doesn't have the extremes of distance and
weather so it's possible to get loads done.
Talk to you all from New Zeland.
Finbarr.

There are 78 replies to this topic.

 

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