Like most every other climber in Australia my buddy and I planned on taking a 2 day climbing trip over this glorious Australia day weekend. Originally our destination was to be Araps; then we decided on Buffalo; then our climb time was cut down to 1 day and we thought a local crag would suffice but then we figured what the hell, we wanted to climb and surf so agreed the only logical location was Wilsons Prom. On Sunday arvo we set out for Wilsons Prom without a guide, weather forecast or a care. We knew we'd find adventure and excitement but weren't too sure just where it was.
As we drove through Fish Creek we figured we probably should find a spot to sleep and into my little mind flashed a favourite childhood haunt; Cape Liptrap.
It's an awesome location and was a perfect bivi spot. (In saying that, we saw the no camping sign this morning as we broke camp. So don't sleep there, ever.) We slept under the myriad stars enjoying the lighthouse's beacon figuring come daybreak we'd head to Wilsons Prom for a bit of a play. Instead, when daybreak fell we saw the potential of the slab below the lighthouse and jumped at the chance to explore.
Pensive sunset shot;
We had no guide so rigged an anchor and explored the top of the slab looking for likely lines. From a previous conversation I'd confirmed a number of climbs exist there but had no idea of where, how good etc…
Sussing out the lines;
We found a few lines that looked like great fun, if easy, though the rock looked suss so I lowered Mike down and he top roped a line pulling off chunks of rock while commenting on how awesome it would be to lead…
Mike seconding the loose corner;
Early morning view from the belay ledge;
View from the top of the belay
I was up as the lead monkey so we walked down, set ourselves up for a fun time and then it was go time. As we were wary of loose rock Mike set the belay a ways to the side so I, in turn, set myself up a nice directional first piece. I set a #10BD nut in a perfect slot and before placing the nut I knocked on the placement to listen for that lovely hollow sound and hearing nothing, placed the piece with it a very gentle tug to set it. As I tugged, gently, the placement and a further football size chunk of rock broke loose, causing me great joy while also breaking another nail. I fought through the pain and finally found another placement, launching upwards thinking happy and very light thoughts.
I broke a few holds though managed to float like a butterfly all the way to the top, where I exultantly let out a rather loud celebratory yawp.
Mike, happy to have not been crushed by loose rock was also overjoyed and quickly followed me up. We then walked back down so he could lead his nominated climb, a lovely looking corner system.
One Mike looking down as another Mike looks up;
I thought it might go at about gr17 though Mike figured more likely 13-14. After watching Mike float up it I realised Mike was likely correct and he settled on gr12
After we dispatched Mike's climb it was time for a group celebratory yawp, and selfie, and then it was time for a wave so we headed to the Cape of Happiness, aka Cape Paterson.
The surf was small, 1-2ft and fun. After a few hours of frolicking we headed home, content in having spent quality time at two Capes. If you've not been to either Cape I'd heartily recommend them, especially Cape Liptrap. It's an awesome place with awesome atmosphere.
P.S. Thanks for the help Andrew.
Right click on the pictures, copy the url, paste into a <img src="[paste url here]"> in a post.
On 27/01/2014 Miguel75 wrote:
>I have pics to upload though they're linking directly to my Facebook
>page, which is something I'm not too keen on opening to the world…
Naked selfies are nothing to be ashamed of Miguel.
On 28/01/2014 simey wrote:
>Naked selfies are nothing to be ashamed of Miguel.
That's kind of you Simey but I've learnt the world is a cruel, cold place for those with a superfluous nipple. I'm not ready for that kind of hurt yet...
On 28/01/2014 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 28/01/2014 simey wrote:
>>Naked selfies are nothing to be ashamed of Miguel.
>That's kind of you Simey but I've learnt the world is a cruel, cold place
>for those with a superfluous nipple. I'm not ready for that kind of hurt
Don't all men have at least two superfluous nipples?
On 28/01/2014 Big G wrote:
>On 28/01/2014 Miguel75 wrote:
>>On 28/01/2014 simey wrote:
>>>Naked selfies are nothing to be ashamed of Miguel.
>>That's kind of you Simey but I've learnt the world is a cruel, cold place
>>for those with a superfluous nipple. I'm not ready for that kind of hurt
>Don't all men have at least two superfluous nipples?
Now I feel doubly saddened.
Andrew, I've pasted the links in the actual TR, without the HTML and would like to ask if you can work your magic, making the pics appear. I've tried a number of times and cannot for the life of me get them to link correctly...
Right click on each image, copy url and paste into
Chris Baxter put a few lines up there - were the top-outs as horrible as they look?
On 4/02/2014 Pat wrote:
>Chris Baxter put a few lines up there - were the top-outs as horrible as
Yup: every bit as bad as it looks, though quite fun.
Yay for me, by copying AFJ's hints and with a little sleuthing I have managed to embed pics. I know this new-found skill is not as monumental as the invention of the wheel or the industrial revolution but I am still very excited...