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VIC Eastern (General) (General) (General)

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Squeaky Beach boulders

Fish Boy

10-Jan-2011
10:02:16 PM

Been doing a little bit of bouldering around Squeaky Beach the last two weekends, and jumped a a few different things. Has anyone (dalai?) written this stuff up or know other areas?

Anyone know much about this one?

dalai

10-Jan-2011
10:53:02 PM

Nice work Fish Boy. Some nice problems on those boulders.

I had started documenting the Squeaky Beach boulders a while back... I had drawn an overview topo plus taken topo photos when I last went down there a few years ago. Plus had some feedback about some 'newer' problems Andy Ellemor had done down on these boulders.

The old Eastern District Guide comments on that face, though I believe the problem is to your right. I've gone up in a couple of places on that face (would have to look at my notes if I can find them) and expect many others have before me too. Did onsight solo Bad Boys that day too sans mat or spotter. Was a tad scary at the top!

The noted problem is Frontal Lobotomy 17

The smooth orange wall facing the beach is traversed right to left starting in the passage. Traverse leftwards a few moves, then up.

Is the creek still flowing at the base of this wall?

Fish Boy

10-Jan-2011
11:24:07 PM

Is Bad Boys the arete which a bit of flake on it, or the 22 next to this

That thing I'm on would be way harder than 17 if you went right from where I was...I took the line of least resistance and kept traversing up and left, with the crux on shitty feet above the rocks...yes there is a creek (tidal river) there, but only a couple of centimeters deep.

Bouldered anywhere else there dalai?

Fish Boy

10-Jan-2011
11:30:02 PM

Ever get out there in your kayak there? Some good surf there last weekend too....

dalai

10-Jan-2011
11:34:31 PM

Just checked the guide again. It is actually called Bitch Boys and is the line to the right of your second photo barefoot on Squeaky Crack.

Only other bouldering I am aware of other than at the other end of Squeaky Beach and Whisky Bay is a reference to an undone traverse on Turtle rock from a now dead link from the old VCC website...

Edit: Nice surf indeed. Have been in there on the truster, but not in a good condtions as you had! I sold the plastic fantastic kayak long ago.

..::- Chris -::..

11-Jan-2011
9:08:29 AM

I've done the route your on... Thought it was V3/4 I think i was a little more to the right though...

The Crack wouldn't be more than V0/1 though in bare feet probably up it to V2.

There is some uber hard stuff to the right of the crack your on A couple of problems i think would be V7 or Harder I've given them a go but never had the balls to finish them, bad landing and huge fall potential....

There are some nice traverses about 5-6 boulders into the ocean a little, one neat one which is a traverse with huge stone jugs almost looks like someone has glued them on, and when the surf is up you can do the traverse with a little added pressure....

Cool Pics, nice surf...

Cheers
Chris

Paulie

11-Jan-2011
9:48:41 PM

Bloody goat boaters :-P

All those boulders have problems on them, I can't think of a line that hasn't been cimbed to be honest, including all the overhanging crack/pocket lines. There is also a heap of bouldering on the eastern end of the beach with all obvious (and non-obvious lines) being climbed and also back at the western end of Tidal River (boat "ramp" end). There are a few secret spots that have quality steep problems between Squeaky and Picnic (follow your nose). Some good lines can be found at Whiskey Bay and all the obvious lines at Darby have also been climbed - there's a cracker of a highball there too! People have done stuff out between Sealers and the Lighhouse too (check Neil's blog) but is a bloody long way to walk for a bouldering session.

Writing them up any further than the descriptions in the eastern Vic guidebook would reduce the "nobody's ever climbed this before" feel I reckon :-)

Paulie

11-Jan-2011
9:52:10 PM

On 10/01/2011 dalai wrote:
>though I believe the problem is to your right.

Nah he's on the right line. There are 4 lines on this face. One on the far left (23? keep travesring left then up - pretty scary); the 17 FB is on, a 15 between FB and the downclimb, then the downclimb (as an up problem).

Paulie

11-Jan-2011
9:53:29 PM

On 10/01/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>Is Bad Boys the arete which a bit of flake on it, or the 22 next to this
>
>
>That thing I'm on would be way harder than 17 if you went right from where
>I was...I took the line of least resistance and kept traversing up and
>left, with the crux on shitty feet above the rocks...yes there is a creek
>(tidal river) there, but only a couple of centimeters deep.

the cracks to your right are a grade 23, not too bad, pretty techy and highball but a good landing.

Fish Boy

12-Jan-2011
3:47:12 PM

On 11/01/2011 Paulie wrote:
>On 10/01/2011 dalai wrote:
>>though I believe the problem is to your right.
>
>Nah he's on the right line. There are 4 lines on this face. One on the
>far left (23? keep travesring left then up - pretty scary); the 17 FB is
>on, a 15 between FB and the downclimb, then the downclimb (as an up problem).

I continued 3 or 4 moves to the left before I went up Paulie, but I thought I took the line of least resistance. I can't climb 23, but was pretty close to the arete, and scared, perched over the rocks. Probably a 17 though....

Miguel75

12-Jan-2011
8:36:45 PM

Squeaky beach is pretty darn fun. I may have to get down there and play soon... Anybody know of any climbing around Cape Liptrap? Some of the boulders/walls on the beach under the lighthouse weren't too chossy from memory...?

dalai

12-Jan-2011
9:11:00 PM

On 12/01/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
> Anybody know of any climbing around Cape Liptrap? Some of the boulders/walls
>on the beach under the lighthouse weren't too chossy from memory...?

There are 6 routes listed at Cape Liptrap in the Eastern Victoria guidebook page 363 in my copy...

Paulie

17-Jan-2011
10:05:50 PM

On 12/01/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>I continued 3 or 4 moves to the left before I went up Paulie, but I thought
>I took the line of least resistance. I can't climb 23, but was pretty close
>to the arete, and scared, perched over the rocks. Probably a 17 though....

The traverse was deffo the hardest bit, which I thought was about V1 or so, but maybe that was the "break your legs fall" factor rather than the technicality of the moves? The one in the photo is def a V0-.

There are 13 messages in this topic.