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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Taipan
sydneymatt
11/09/2006
9:40:58 AM
Have read some where around that Feather Boa may be best route on Taipan. Also heard a bit run out. Is it gear or bolts? Whats it consist Of? Scary? Good? Safe?. Also whats the best, easiest climb that tops out taipan? Happy to pull on a few bits if necesary? Any positive advice will be appreciated. Also like a little amusement from the trolls out there. cheers matt

nmonteith
11/09/2006
10:08:26 AM
Chris Jones wrote...(18.11.2005)

"...there is no way Feather Boa is 28 - it took me four full days complete with a last move bungle and
having to come back for another redpoint. Its at least a full grade harder and quite commiting, but the
grade is difficult to define as the cruxes are by no means straight forward. Regardless it's the best
route I've done on the wall and one I'll remember forever. The last pitch is really cute too.

By way of comparison, around that time I did a bunch of other routes supposedly as hard or harder on
the wall 2/3rd try - so to give FB 28 you'd have to give venom 25/26, and groovy, Cardigan St &
anaconda - 26 too. Whilst on the topic of Anaconda it's worth mentioning that doing all three pitches in
a single pitch on a 70m is highly recommended. In fact it's possible to do World party as a single pitch
as well - great fun. "

nmonteith
11/09/2006
10:09:49 AM
Easist route to the top is probably Dance Of Life 24 M1. Its also a mega classic. Grade 22ish until the
last few metres. One aid bolt at the start and one carrot at the finish. Rest is super bomber trad. (40m
pitch)
WM
11/09/2006
5:12:25 PM
Not too much around on Feather Boa, but try here and here.

Seventh Pillar via the LHV is four great pitches at 22M1 up the biggest part of the wall, with only 1 or 2 aid points. Classic!
Dance of Life also gets my vote.
Mr Joshua tops out at 26 and will be right up your alley I reckon.
There's some 18s and 20s down the left end which top out - strictly speaking it's still the same wall, but it's not really "taipan". But they're fun enough, and they do get you to the top if you're wanting to see what it's like up there, work out where the rap descent is (or pre-place gear on something ....) A topo of this end of the wall can be found halfway down this page.

And here's my beta for these routes and others on the "left" and "right" sides of Taipan.
sydneymatt
12/09/2006
11:39:09 AM
Thanks guys. Very interested the top pitch of Mr Joshua , Gear? Run-out? stopper moves? pumpy?

nmonteith
12/09/2006
11:49:03 AM
On 12/09/2006 sydneymatt wrote:
>Thanks guys. Very interested the top pitch of Mr Joshua , Gear? Run-out?
>stopper moves? pumpy?

I haven't done it - but i rapped down and replaced some of the bolts a few years back. It is shortish (15m)
with a big dyno right at the start (crux) then it goes up a subtle prow with slopy edges. Looks pumpy and
quite sustained. Mostly bolts and they are close together - i think there is a few cams or wires in the
horizontal break after the dyno move. There is a rap chain at the top of the route. It doesn't get much
traffic so it might be a little mossy right near the end - and it won't have tick marks!

nmonteith
12/09/2006
6:34:36 PM
-update-
Mr Joshua pitch 2 was repeated yesterday - so it might be cleaned and chalked up!

Hawkman
12/09/2006
7:38:49 PM
sweet. ready for a potential assualt this weekend?

phil_nev
13/09/2006
10:23:39 AM
By whom might i ask?

nmonteith
13/09/2006
10:32:42 AM
On 13/09/2006 phil_nev wrote:
>By whom might i ask?

Garry and Jake (from tassie). They are camped at Taipan for the next month or so and hunting down new
routes!

Hawkman
13/09/2006
10:59:28 AM
i might have a look at the tope pitch of i make it that far this weekend. would need to drag up someone though and there are probably better pitches else where on tiapan to occupy my time.


phil_nev
13/09/2006
11:12:27 AM
You should get on world party steveie, 2nd pitch is a softie, espesialy with a bit of lank (Which you have in abundance). Top pitch = amazing

Hawkman
13/09/2006
11:22:15 AM
its a high priority. ive been on the pirst pitch of mr j once before so would like to do that first. depending on how this goes will determine what route i try after that (if any :))


There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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