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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Feather Boa 28
WM
13/08/2004
2:47:18 PM
This Dave Jones route looks to be between 7th Pillar and Serpentine - has it been written up anywhere?

Its on Simon Carter's page at http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/aust/vic/grampians/08.htm and http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/aust/vic/grampians/09.htm

It isn't in Mentz/Tempest or Loughran print guides, nor is it online at http://www.vicclimb.org.au/pages/newroutes_grampians.html or http://www.vicclimb.org.au/media/pdf/newroutes/grampians.pdf
kieranl
13/08/2004
10:23:40 PM
Dave doesn't tend to write his climbs up. I think Feather Boa post-dates my little guide.

alrob
14/08/2004
10:56:30 AM
its in the back of the newest gramps guide, under 'late additions' or something like that
WM
16/08/2004
9:00:11 AM
yep Alrob you're right - and I see its been added to the topo too (I don't have the 2nd ed Mentz/Tempest - not $40 extra value over the 1st IMO - which leads to the odd silly question......)

Hopefully this question isn't so silly: there's at least 3 routes bolted between 7th pillar and serpentine, each with a FH on the lip of the roof just above the first belays of 7P/S...one will be feather boa but anyone know what the other 2 are?

nmonteith
16/08/2004
9:26:41 AM
The one just left of Groovy is a Cossey brothers project.
Onsight
16/08/2004
11:18:53 AM
Doof, Neil, Groovy isn't between Serpentine and 7th Pillar.

Hi Will, from memory there was a bolted project to the left of Feather Boa, but I canít say for sure if in fact there arenít two projects to the left of it (ie. Feather Boa could be the right most one, or it could be in the middle Ė in the middle would be my guess though). The project to the left looked way hard but could be really awesome. I donít know whose it is though; check with Dave who resides in Nati.

Feather Boa looked like an awesome route when I photographed it. However, be warned, it could be very run-out low down before those bolts that you see in the first photo that you linked to. I thought Dave said something about running out of bolts or somethingÖ Could be a question for his interview.
WM
10/10/2004
6:55:20 PM
checked again yesterday - there is definitely 3 bolted routes/projects about 10-20m R of 7th pillar 2nd pitch
gfdonc
10/10/2004
9:09:38 PM
Julian did mention at some stage he had an unfinished project there .. J?

alrob
11/10/2004
4:39:56 PM
from his interview on this site:

Q: Bouldering seems to be high on your priorities. Do you prefer it over climbing routes? When you are leading do you prefer sport, trad, aid, ice? Do you free solo at all?

........." I have one project on Taipan that I would like to do, especially since I sent Nathan Hoette up there and he reported back that it is not as hard as I thought. Not that Nathan can be trusted with judging difficulty. Somebody put his butt cheeks where his shoulders used to be!"
Jonesy
9/11/2004
9:11:13 PM
From memory there are two bolted routes left of Feather Boa - one of which takes the orange
arete just above the roof of FB (and shares the start & crux) - the left most route is a completely
independent one that H bolted after he did Mirage and to quote Dave "thought he could dyno the
height of the crag". Both are incredible.

FB itself is an amazing route (my favourite on the wall) - its everything a route should be - hard,
commiting and very funky - it took me 5 days, with a couple of tries each day and a fall from the
very very last move. I thought it was much harder than Anaconda and Cardigan St both of which
are in similar positions. The Crux on FB took me 3 visits to work out and invovled palming a
rooflet rocking over and then falling backwards onto a sloper at full extension.

Julian's project is the ridiculously hard scooped orange streak immediately left of Medusa top
pitch (which inicidentally has lost a hold and is now in need of some Gordy magic).

You've got to admire a line on Taipan that you can see from Araps on a clear day.....

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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