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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
STUPID new route on the Totem Pole

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
3:20:06 PM
This needs to be in general discussion...

Topic Date User
The Sorcerer - A new route on The Totem Pole Thursday, 26 March 2015 At 9:12:47 AM IdratherbeclimbingM9
Message
http://www.onsight.com.au/newsletterposts/the-sorcerer/

Established by Garry Phillips and Chris Coppard just a few weeks ago, the route is called The Sorcerer. The first pitch (grade 20) traverses around to the eastern side of the pillar and a hanging belay just above the swell, the second pitch provides punchy climbing straight up the ledge (grade 25) and the third pitch follows a crack out to the left arete then blasts straight up (grade 27).

>Well done.
>Great work guys, and thanks also to Onsight for informing us about it, along with excellent pics!



Typical bloody over / saturation bolting in Tassie...

>Great work guys...

No its not great work ....its poorly thought thru BS !!!

You Tassie boys cry about cable cars over the pipes and a couple of rap bolts at Ben Lomond ... and then TRASH one of the iconoc rock structures on the planet ...



Johny recently said
>Garry has climbed the thing a dozen times.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=4&MessageID=3479&Replies=22&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

OK...Gaz ...if ur bored shitless with it just dont go there ....leave it for other people to enjoy its majesty... which of course they cant now ....in spirit .... as a whole ...

The new start to the ledge was fine ... it added a nice VERY INDEPENDENT start to the ledge ....in addition to Deep Play and the Monks wariants ...

BUT we now have paralell lines of bolts ...about ...what 2.5 to 3 metres apart on the same 4 metre face ... GENIUS GAZ ... great work ... NOT !!!

To turn the place into a media circus is one thing ...but to have done this ... HONESTLY .... CMON ...




Jayford4321
26-Mar-2015
5:00:52 PM
On 26/03/2015 Imaclawfan wrote:
>This needs to be in general discussion...
>
>Typical bloody over / saturation bolting in Tassie...
>
>
>No its not great work ....its poorly thought thru BS !!!

>
>Johny recently said
>>Garry has climbed the thing a dozen times.

He also said,
>Also if you don't like Garry's new route, tell HIM about it.
So why RU whinging to us?

>

>BUT we now have paralell lines of bolts ...about ...what 2.5 to 3 metres
>apart on the same 4 metre face ... GENIUS GAZ ... great work ... NOT !!!

He obviously dint ask you if he could bolt it, so that means ya don't have to aks him B4 ya debolt it.
bentobox
26-Mar-2015
5:06:06 PM
I'll wait til I see it in the flesh before I judge.

But Garry is a legend and one of the first people I ever climbed with. I highly doubt he put up a shitty route.

iMACLAWFAN
26-Mar-2015
5:06:57 PM
On 26/03/2015 gnaguts wrote:
>He obviously dint ask you if he could bolt it, so that means ya don't
>have to aks him B4 ya debolt it.

VERY GOOD ...just hoping gaz will do the right thing .... and leave pitch one ...and de-bolt the desecration next to Simey's masterpiece ...

iMACLAWFAN
26-Mar-2015
5:10:17 PM
On 26/03/2015 bentobox wrote:
>But Garry is a legend and one of the first people I ever climbed with.
>I highly doubt he put up a shitty route.

We all know Gaz is a good bloke ....and its not about whether the route CLIMBS well

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
5:13:57 PM
And heres a PM I sent the lurking chockstone moderator

>I HAVENT WRITTEN ANYTHING POLITICALLY INCORRECT ...THIS iS AN IMPORTANT ISSUE FOR ALL CLIMBERS

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
5:19:11 PM
>So why RU whinging to us?

Cos this piece of rock isnt in Garrys back yard ...THATS WHY !!!
Chockstone Moderator
26-Mar-2015
5:34:52 PM
On 26/03/2015 Imaclawfan wrote:
>And heres a PM I sent the lurking chockstone moderator
>
>>I HAVENT WRITTEN ANYTHING POLITICALLY INCORRECT ...THIS iS AN IMPORTANT
>ISSUE FOR ALL CLIMBERS

Since you want to go public with private messages, yes I quite unexpectedly received your PM as above.
I have not responded due scanning the site for issues, and my initial reaction (not sent), is now an official response, of being;
???

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
5:41:45 PM
>???

COOOL

I appreciate ur role on Shockstone (it is 4 me today) and hope that u and ur collective mod mates take a deep breath when you are ' scanning '

CHEERS

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
5:45:40 PM
And I say to Mr Carter ... and we all know ur a good bloke .... after reading this

>The Sorcerer offers a harder alternative to the ever increasingly popular The Free Route (25) >and is much better protected (mostly bolts, just a few bits of trad) than the free version of the >Ewbank Route (27). Incredibly, this new route comes some 20 years after the first free route >on the Totem Pole, The Free Route, was established.

U SHOULD KNOW BETTER


>The Sorcerer offers a harder alternative to the ever increasingly popular The Free Route (25)

Well HELLO !!!...a harder alternative ...OK if 25 is too ' gy' for you these days ...then ya could just have told your worldwide fans that if ya want the TPOLE at 27 ... then just skip a couple of holds on the FREE ROUTE ...

>the ever increasingly popular The Free Route (25)

Thats cos its a FKN WORLDWIDE CLASSIC !!! ...and more and more ppl are hearing ppl raving about it THE PURE EXPERIENCE THAT ONCE WAS THE MEGA CLASSIC THE FREE ROUTE ON THE TOTEM POLE CAPE HAUY TASMANIA AUSTRALIA ...EARTH !!!!

Now they can come and see what the gym route setter has installed 3 metres to the left !!!

> Incredibly, this new route comes some 20 years

IINCREDIBLE .... ..............fair dinkum ...
PThomson
26-Mar-2015
6:46:19 PM
Obviously this is a Troll post, since the poster's argument is utterly invalid and pointless. I doubt the Troll has actually been on the Tote since the establishment of The Sorcerer.

But since this thread is still alive (who knows why it hasn't been killed yet), I will say this:

I climbed the Free Route 2 days after Gazza did the FA of the new route, and his chalk was still on it. The only section of climbing it justifiably shares with the Free Route is the top section where the free route (briefly) changes aretes. Like the original route, The Sorcerer is a MIXED Route, which keeps in the vein of the other routes on the wall, and is tastefully bolted. Furthermore, who draws the line at when an "icon" becomes untouchable for new routing, especially where the newer established routes remain independent and distinctly separate (in both climbing and distance) from the other routes?

There are 4 aretes on the Tote, 3 of them have now been climbed and the other is sandy pox (if you've ever actually spent enough time exploring the Tote to have discovered this). The face is approximately 4m wide which is more than enough for the routes to be unique without becoming contrived or crossing-paths and sharing holds -especially when climbing aretes. Which is precisely what they do. You criticise the photo of Gazza climbing the middle of the face to gain the arete on the left. That's the setup move... try getting onto the Free Route P2 from that position at gr24.

I respect what Gazza's done only slightly less than I respect what Doug McConnell did in freeing the original Ewbank Route (which is saying a lot, as having had a lash at the FreeD route I am utterly staggered by the intensity of the climbing), and I think it's both valid, and a great achievement.

-Paul

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
6:56:49 PM
On 26/03/2015 PThomson wrote:
>Obviously this is a Troll post, since the poster's argument is utterly
>invalid and pointless. I doubt the Troll has actually been on the Tote
>since the establishment of The Sorcerer.
>
>But since this thread is still alive (who knows why it hasn't been killed
>yet), I will say this:
>
>I climbed the Free Route 2 days after Gazza did the FA of the new route,
>and his chalk was still on it. The only section of climbing it justifiably
>shares with the Free Route is the top section where the free route (briefly)
>changes aretes. Like the original route, The Sorcerer is a MIXED Route,
>which keeps in the vein of the other routes on the wall, and is tastefully
>bolted. Furthermore, who draws the line at when an "icon" becomes untouchable
>for new routing, especially where the newer established routes remain independent
>and distinctly separate (in both climbing and distance) from the other
>routes?
>
>There are 4 aretes on the Tote, 3 of them have now been climbed and the
>other is sandy pox (if you've ever actually spent enough time exploring
>the Tote to have discovered this). The face is approximately 4m wide which
>is more than enough for the routes to be unique without becoming contrived
>or crossing-paths and sharing holds -especially when climbing aretes. Which
>is precisely what they do. You criticise the photo of Gazza climbing the
>middle of the face to gain the arete on the left. That's the setup move...
>try getting onto the Free Route P2 from that position at gr24.
>
>I respect what Gazza's done only slightly less than I respect what Doug
>McConnell did in freeing the original Ewbank Route (which is saying a lot,
>as having had a lash at the FreeD route I am utterly staggered by the intensity
>of the climbing), and I think it's both valid, and a great achievement.
>
>-Paul


wELL GOOD 4 U ... But were not talkin about the Ewbank route ... or whether 6 inches between the routes is acceptable to u .... u obviosly dont give ash@t or cant even comprehend THE BIGGER PICTURE ...and Im sure ura good bloke ...

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
7:01:17 PM
Now I was tempted to bring Dougy boy into this before ... cos there is a precedent of DE-BOLTING NEXT TO CLASSICS ... pretty sure someone put a line of bolts next to Reserection shuffle on the pipes and was then asked by the tas climbing community to remove them ... which he then did ... that took guts ... Aussies hate to back down

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
7:19:09 PM
>tastefully bolted.

HAAAAAAAAA..... pretty sure thats an oxymoron in a situation like this

>Furthermore, who draws the line at when an "icon" becomes untouchable for new routing,

Dear oh dear......... who ?..... COMMON SENSE

>especially where the newer established routes remain independent and distinctly separate (in both climbing and distance) from the other routes?

2 routes ... 2 lines of bolts up a 4 metre wide face... I remember Bob Mc Mahon saying something about dogs pissing on trees....

Listen dude ... *grits teeth* ... I respect u ....and I expected this sort of self righteous response .... all part of the community ' voice '...

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
7:30:19 PM
>argument is utterly invalid and pointless.

I will let Sting respond to that one ...

Poets, priests and poiticians
Have words to thank for their positions
Words that scream for your submission
And no-one's jamming their transmission
And when their eloquence escapes you
Their logic ties you up and wrecks you


I know theres some quiet ppl out there who can see and feel what Im on about

Dont be shy or feel bullied by ' strong voices '
chris_coppard
26-Mar-2015
9:43:22 PM
Just to put my two cents in...

The line we established is independent of the 2nd pitch of the Free route/ Deep Play. It is an amazing line and well thought out. It has not taken anything away from the pole or the experience it offers. There is now another pitch that offers a harder variant to the other routes. I am not sure who started this thread but I think you should put your name to it. If you have climbed both pitches and still feel that your argument is valid then, and only then do I feel it should be put forward in the public arena.

If you feel so strongly about this I would welcome you to call me, I am sure you can get my number off any number of climbers in Tasmania.

Chris

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
9:46:23 PM
On 26/03/2015 chris_coppard wrote:
>Just to put my two cents in...
>
>The line we established is independent of the 2nd pitch of the Free route/
>Deep Play. It is an amazing line and well thought out. It has not taken
>anything away from the pole or the experience it offers. There is now another
>pitch that offers a harder variant to the other routes. I am not sure who
>started this thread but I think you should put your name to it. If you
>have climbed both pitches and still feel that your argument is valid then,
>and only then do I feel it should be put forward in the public arena.
>
>If you feel so strongly about this I would welcome you to call me, I am
>sure you can get my number off any number of climbers in Tasmania.
>
>Chris



iTS ALL GOOD MATE... Its ur piece of rock... ur bolts ..u do what u want ... its a free c#ntry ...
kieranl
26-Mar-2015
9:52:45 PM
God-damn, feel like getting some popcorn out. Nothing quite like an anonymous troller lashing themselves into a frenzy trying to get a rise out of people. There should be a law against such good fun.



Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
9:55:34 PM
lLOL

Wish their stupidity was a troll ..

Maybe its all a dream and Qnsight has been doing some photoshop approaching April 1 ...I wish ...

Imaclawfan
26-Mar-2015
10:03:11 PM
Everyone craps on about asking the first ascenists ... do ya rekon they had a robust discussion with simey .... I mean a 4 metre face ... fk sake ...

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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