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Rec.Climbing Recent Topics Of Interest


I read the rec.climbing newsgroup fairly regularly, and thought I might start making a note of topics of interest. If you don't have a news reader, Google provides a web based interface. See also the other climbing forums in the links section.

Chockstone Quote
"Hours slide by like minutes. The accumulated clutter of day-to-day existence the lapses of conscience, the unpaid bills, the bungled opportunities, the dust under the couch, the inescapable prison of your genes all of it is temporarily forgotten, crowded from your thoughts by an overpowering clarity of purpose by the seriousness of the task at hand." - Jon Krakauer.

December 2003
TR: Whatever - A good trip report of a tall route at Red Rocks, old school trad meets modern climber.
FFA Hourglass - Recollections of the FFA of the Left Side of the Hourglass.

November 2003
Jules Verne - The infamous runout face of the third pitch of Jules Verne.

July 2003
Never Take A Sport Climber - An epic multi-pitch leaves the team hiking out in the dark with no torches or water.
The Perverted Diamond - Desperate descent off the Diamond as a storm hammers them and rock fall nearly takes out another party.
Trad Eye for the Bolt Clipper - Funny little skit about trad vs sport climbers.

March 2003
This Is Real - Discussion of a photo taken of some first time aid climbers practicing. Quite funny! Further down the thread the pic is enhanced with humorous notation.
A Scary Little 5.8 - Marvellous trip report by Larry on the loose rock of Calico Basin.

January 2003
Vegas Vignettes - An entertaining, and oddly formatted trip report from Alex, plus some interesting follow up posts from other team members.
Squamish TR : Part I, Part II, Part III, Part IV, Part V, Part VI, Part VII, Part VIII, Part IX, Part X - Entitled "Fear of A Black Granite", this trip report is a nice read, and describes a few days of multi-pitching some humbling routes.
Bad Anchor Stories - A couple of replies to this thread offer some interesting tales. Single piece belays, etc.
The Stall - Trip report of bouldering the office toliet. Funny!

October 2002
Are You A Safe Climber - Discussion on just what is considered safe. "Good judgement is the result of experience. Experience is the result of bad judgement".
Rainbow Wall - A nice little retro trip report of a big wall experience.
Anymore Weekend TRs? - This is actually a reply to this thread. It's a marvellous trip report of an ascent of El Cap's Nose route in, what 27 hours of continuous free and aid climbing, and a life-time goal for the articles author. Well written and very enjoyable reading.

September 2002
From A Simple Climber - See Also: Part 2 & Part 3. Retro essay on getting into climbing. Well written. Leads into a trip report including an accident.
Climbing TR Of Sorts - Funny collection of possibly fictional letters home detailing the start of a climbing career.
Climbing Editor Chops Route - Heated debate on the age old Bolt Wars saga. Dudes bolt a new route, another, possibly more experienced climber sees bolts next to cracks and chops the offending hardware. (You'd be tar and feathered if you bolted a crack here in Australia). The spin on this event is that said climber is in fact, the editor of a popular US climbing mag.
Climbing Chopper Edits Route - Secondary thread associated with above topic.

August 2002
Dancing With The DNB - A good trip report of an all day climb on Middle Cathedral.
Slaying A Nemesis - Short trip report of returning to do a route in better style.
If The Leader Must Not Fall Then What? - Discussion of when to "make the move and take the chance".

July 2002
Report From Zion Rap Accident Survior - Abseiler raps off the ends of the rope despite knot?
Braille Brook Accident: A Rescuers Account - Lead soloist falls (device failure?), rescuer is also hurt during helicopter evacuation.
Getting Religion - Dingus gives us a masterful trip report of a tall, easy classic where-in much is learned.

June 2002
It's All Kitchen Sponges & Bad Advice - A response to this thread, detailing a terrible accident in which a female top roper falls ripping the top rope's single anchor.
Report On Braille Brook Rescue - Details of an accident in which solo climber falls, and a further mishaps occurs during the rescue attempt. Unfortunately the climber dies and one rescue worker is injured.

May 2002
Confessions Of An Altar Boy - A trip report from John Byrnes detailing an epic ascent in "Castle Valley". Wild off-width climbing, stuck ropes, a storm, rock fall, multiple injures, but they live to tell the tale.
How Many Tries For Your First Big Wall - Admissions from Big Wall climbers who had to bail many times before success was finally granted.
Best Method For Connecting Two Sewn Slings - The topic gets rehashed once more.

April 2002
Helicopter Evacuation - Details of a lead fall in Joshua Tree that results in head injuries. Climber not wearing a helmet.

March 2002
A Not So Rosy Crucifixon - A good trip report from Kreighton, who writes eloquently of being shagged out while sharing the lead on an Eldo climb.
More Fuel For The Old Helmet Debate - Describes a head injury incurred during a fall. The subsequent thread rehashes the helmet debate.
Self Rescue Question - How a belayer could set about rescuing their unconscious leader, if they were more than half a rope length out.
Taking In Rope On A Leader Fall - Discusses the advanced belay technique of taking in (or letting out) slack during a fall. Mention is made of an article on the Planet Fear web site that goes over this technique.
Tie In With Biner - Discusses attaching the rope to the harness with a figure eight, bowline, locking carabiner(s), cross loading and self opening issues, wear on the rope at the knot, etc.
Warren Harding Dying - Comments from climbers surrounding the death of a legend, Warren Harding, who established many a route up El Cap, Yosemite back in the "good old days", including, I believe, the all time classic Nose route.

February 2002
Knotting The Ends Of Rappel Ropes - So you don't abseil off into the abyss below. Thread also gets into abseil backups, etc.

January 2002
Accident In The Gym - Leading a gym climb, dude impales himself on a draw - ouch!

December 2001
Colin's Gunks Fest Tumble - Accident report, a fall from low down on an easy climb still results in a "severely contused pelvis". A lesson for us all?

November 2001
The Femur Is The Strongest Bone - Trip report from "tradkelly" detailing an Indian Creek climb in which piece pops and a deck out fall is taken, but climber walks away uninjured.
Mace - A good trip report from Brutus, detailing his ascent of "The Mace" with two others.
Gri Gri/Rope Diameter - Discusses how thin a rope can be before a GriGri will fail to lock off, other reasons why a GriGri might fail, such as a wet, dirty or icy rope, etc. See Also: similar thread.

 

Please contact me if you believe there is a broken link, or you have a suggestion for inclusion in this section.
Chockstone Quote
"Doubly happy, however, is the man to whom lofty mountain tops are within reach." - John Muir.

 

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