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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Mackey's Lookout	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Noblesse Oblige description and topo 28-Feb-2008 At 8:08:27 AM mikl law

Message

Noblesse Oblige 405m 13
Classic easy slab climbing. Takes a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hex’s are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground. Drive up about 1 km from Eurobin Falls and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes. The climb takes about 2-3 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

1) 35m 8 Head up right to a short crack with a flake at the top at 10m, then leftwards past another flake then a BR to a bolt and gear belay in a big scoop.
2) 30m 8 Climb up past flakes to 2 BB in a deep bushy scoop
3) 40m 13 Go right up to a poor sling runner, BR, and then past another sling to a bolt and bush belay in a scoop.
4) 40m 12 Up past BR to a dyke at 30m, walk R to a sling and bolt belay.
5) 40m 8 Back left to black streak and up past BR to bollard and bolt belay.
6) 40m 6 Traverse diagonally right past a crack, a thread-able flake and more cracks to a bush in the black streak on the next buttress to the right. Up black streak to bolt belay.
7) 40m 6 Up streak past gear in scoops to bolt belay.
8) 40m 8 Head up slightly rightwards (~ 1 o’clock direction) past bush and up white slab to bolt belay on ledge.
9) & 10) 100m 4 Continue scrambling in this 1 o’clock direction up the buttress to the “Great Walk” track.
Walk 30m right to the road and hitch/drive/cycle back to car.
Mikl Law, Geoff Gledhill Easter 1976, retro-bolted Feb 2008