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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 6-Feb-2013 At 12:36:54 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

Message

On 4/02/2013 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>On 4/02/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>
>>1 BR on The Pintle LHV where the flake used to be
>
>When did the flake fall off? I haven't climbed up at the horn for years.
>Is the LHV still any good? Was a bit of a classic prior to the flake falling
>off.

Having recently redone the route, I feel it greatly reduces the 'sting in the tail' of that climb, and felt it a shame to see it go that way, as the topout of the second pitch is heaps less memorable now.

The broken off flake ironically makes for better natural pro opportunities now, which to my mind increases the redundancy of that relatively newly placed bolt!

Where that new bolt was located was discreet, but meant clipping it at your feet from the best available stance. Now that the flake is broken off, one can clip the bolt at knee height from a massive stance, which makes me think it is a convenience thing contrived for the new generation climber...

On 5/02/2013 kieranl wrote:
>I have a vague feeling that someone mentioned putting a bolt on the Pintle
>LHV some time ago to me. Probably not a bad thing at the top of that flake,
>if something goes wrong you're going for a very long way.

It rings similar memory bells for me too, but I have not been able to find specific post/s regarding it in respect of the flake portion of the climb.

As an aside, the first and second pitches can easily be run together at 52 m on a 60 m rope, and if the good pro options are utilised on the '2nd pitch' portion of the climb, then the catch would be quite soft compared to splitting it into 2 pitches.

I think it has not seen any falls (accidents?), despite the mentally run-out section that finishes that pitch off, because the lower portion of that pitch sorts out the contenders. Anyone who can get up the start of the original 2nd pitch finds the eased off angle above the flake easily done physically, even if it tests them mentally.